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A journey to the heart of small-town Scotland

Neither bustling metropolis nor rural idyll, the town is struggling to define itself in the 21st century. Alan Taylor searches for its soul.

WE have caught Irvine on a good day. But even with the sun out it is hard not to feel engulfed with despair. The reason is the Bridgegate Centre, a Valhalla of a shopping mall that dwarfs everything in its environs and is decaying before our eyes.