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Pursuit of the beautiful

Tantallon Castle, stronghold of the Douglas earls of Angus for some 300 years, sits like a jaggedy molar atop its cliff edge, now in ruins but still a fearsome silhouette against the Bass Rock.

The sky here is open wide and the sea birds plunge screeching into the waves – for gentile East Lothian it's a very raw kind of beauty spot, and presumably a nightmare in terms of audience health-and-safety. "True, not exactly a straightforward venue," says Lammermuir Festival co-director James Water as we roam about the castle grounds. "But then festivals have to have a bit of madness about them, don't they? Otherwise what's the point?" He pledges then and there to programme "at least one seriously quirky event each year".

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