Francesca Street

“James Bond was here”: the words are etched on the road sign in front of us. Positioned amidst the mountains and the glen, it is the only man-made object as far as the eye can see. “That’s settles it,” declares my friend Helena, our designated driver, “We’re here!” She pulls over and parks her tiny Mini – heaving with five excitable people and a weekend’s supply of food – on the single track road in Glen Etive. We leap out, desperate to stretch our legs after a long drive north from Edinburgh.

The stunning mountain-capped view is immediately recognisable from Sam Mendes’ Skyfall (2012), the most successful Bond movie in recent years. As we clamber out of the car, Helena leaves her phone plugged into the speakers and chooses an appropriate tune for the proceedings: Skyfall’s Oscar-winning theme echoes out of our vehicle.

“Let the Skyfall...” croons Adele as we, mesmerised, stand in the very spot in which Bond (Daniel Craig) and M (Judi Dench) pause in the film, looking out at the dramatic, mist-tinged landscape and the beautiful Loch Etive. The view is breathtaking.

We pose for photos: Helena’s Union flag-emblazoned Mini Cooper stands in for Bond’s Aston Martin as we try to emulate Daniel Craig’s Bond pout. We dance about excitedly on the empty road. Running up and down hills, taking photos and laughing. Marvelling that we are on a veritable film set come to life.

Skyfall/Glen Etive is the first step on our journey north from Edinburgh to Skye.

The weekend break is a pre-graduation holiday. During our four years studying in Edinburgh we have visited all the castles in the Edinburgh area, hired a car and driven into the stunning snowy depths of the Cairngorms and now we are en route to this tiny, romanticised island.

It seems appropriate that we are visiting Skyfall. Back when the film was released in our first year at university, we crowded into our local multiplex to watch Daniel Craig square up against Javier Bardem’s avenging villain. The film’s thrilling denouement sees Bond and M drive Bond’s Aston Martin into the depths of the Highlands, in search of Skyfall, Bond’s ancestral home. As the iconic car weaves in and out of the hills, the audience are treated to stunning, sweeping panoramas of Glen Coe and around.

Skyfall might feature action sequences filmed in Istanbul and Shanghai, but Scotland remains its most memorable locale: the perfect setting for a confrontation that is both dramatic and poignant. It is easy to see why cinematographer Roger Deakins received an Oscar nomination for his work. Watching in an Edinburgh cinema was a fantastic experience: the audience audibly cheered when Scotland appeared on screen. Being here now, four years later, it feels like we have come full circle.

Our next stop has a similar significance: Glenfinnan Viaduct. The five of us are in our early twenties: smack bang in the middle of the Harry Potter generation. We were kids who devoured JK Rowling’s books at midnight, had Harry Potter birthday parties and can still quote the films by heart.

This curved 1898 bridge might appear on the Scottish £10 note, but Glenfinnan’s real claim to fame is that the Hogwarts Express crosses the viaduct biannually on its journey to and from the magical wizarding school. Its most memorable appearance is in Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets (2002): Harry and Ron fly over the viaduct in Ron’s flying Ford Anglia, as the Hogwarts Express steams on ahead.

The viaduct is situated at the top of Loch Shiel, which stands in for the Black Lake in the Harry Potter films, and is also the site of the 60 foot Glenfinnan Monument, commemorating the 1745 Jacobite Rising. The nearby visitor centre is a rather eclectic mix of Harry Potter paraphernalia and Jacobite history books. We find this endearing: our love of the Starz TV series Outlander has given us an extra familiarity with Charles Edward Stuart's endeavours.

The typical weather – rain and mist – only adds to the cinematic ambiance. The haze over Loch Shiel seems to veil Azakaban’s evil dementors, whilst the imposing bridge looks even more mystical in the mist. We climb up a hill by the visitor centre to get a better view, swiping away the midges and pulling our hoods over our heads to protect from rain.

Suddenly, we stop. A train is choo-chooing in the distance, the echoing sound getting closer and closer. “Can you hear that?” we exclaim to one another excitedly. Excitedly, we run up the rest of the steps. Sure enough, reaching the top we are greeted with the sight of a steam locomotive appearing through the mountains. We watch it weave its way south towards the viaduct and across. Overwhelmed by how perfect our timing is, we stand watching and cheering as the Jacobite steam train crosses the bridge. “All our childhood dreams have now come true!” observes Faye, only half-joking. It is wonderful seeing this magical cinematic vision come to life.

Back in the car, we drive further north towards Skye. The views are so breathtaking they almost become commonplace. Approaching the Skye Bridge we choose another location-appropriate tune to accompany our crossing: the Skye Boat Song AKA the Outlander theme tune.

“Merry of soul, she sailed on a day/Over the sea to Skye,” sings Bear McCreary as the mainland recedes behind us and we cross into the famed island.

The mist clouds our first impressions of Skye. The island’s name has never seemed so appropriate. I have the distinct sensation that we are driving through a cloud.

We emerge on the high ridge of volcanic rock known as the Trotternish Ridge. Trotternish Cottage is on a rural croft, populated by sheep, ponies and Border Collie dogs and owned by Liz and John Fenwick. Entering the spacious cottage after a day of driving into the unknown, our collective relief is tangible. Liz and John have left fresh eggs, milk and flowers. We change into our pyjamas, open a bottle of wine, play board games and eat pizza.

We wake up to rainless but hazy, skies. Our first stop on the itinerary is the Quiraing, a landslip on the eastern face of Meall na Suiramach. In the slightly clearer weather conditions we are delighted to see more of the breathtaking scenery: our cottage is so close to the water, whilst the Quiraing is only fifteen minutes from our cottage.

In the upcoming film The BFG, The Quiraing (pronounced like ‘kerrang’) doubled for the land of the giants. Skye has also been the locations for Macbeth (2015); Prometheus (2012), Snow White and the Huntsman (2012); Stardust (2007) and the Gaelic film Seachd: The Inaccessible Pinnacle (2007).

Even in dreich weather, it is not hard to see why Trotternish’s otherworldly scenery forms the backdrop for these films. Once again the mist complements the surroundings, accentuating the Quiraing’s ethereal aura. Observing the jagged rocks, the glistening water below and the landmark pinnacles, it is easy to see why Stephen Spielberg fell for Skye.

We walk happily amongst this distinctly breathtaking scenery. We eat lunch by the Prison, a rocky peak resembling a medieval fortress. It has a regal, mystical air. When we approach a flatter peak, the Table, the mist unexpectedly lifts. Suddenly, we can see spectacular sea views and long distance panoramas towards the mountains of the Wester Ross.

We feel fortunate to have seen both sides to the Quiraing: Macbeth’s unknowable, eerie landscape and The BFG’s technicolor land of the giants.

The Quiraing’s splendour is tough view to beat, but our next stop, the Old Man of Storr, is equally dazzling. Scrambling up the steep rocks might be a challenge, but perhaps the greater difficulty is deciding what view to photograph upon arrival at the peak. Every glance affords a different vista: Eastwards over the sea to the islands of Raasay and Rona, Southwards towards the Cuillin Mountains and, straight ahead towards the other stunning rock formations that make up this unforgettable landscape.

Sunday sees us travel to south Skye to follow in the footsteps of another Bond: Sean Connery. In cult classic Highlander (1986), the immortal Connery trains his protege, Christopher Lambert’s Connor MacLeod, at the Coire Lagan: an impressive loch in a quarry high up in the Cuillin Mountains. Embarking on this rugged ascent, we fail to comprehend the difficulty or the challenge of the climb. It takes roughly three hours to climb up and down.

It would not be an exaggeration to say I have a slight breakdown on the Coire Lagan. I love Scottish mountains, but in general I prefer to admire them from a nice restaurant, cocktail in hand. At one point I lie on the ground and proclaim I never want to see a rock again. I make it to the top with the help of my very kind and patient friends. Whilst the view from Coire Lagan’s peak is impressive, it is not as stunning as those providing by the Trotternish ridge.

Once back on ground and rejuvenated by tea from the nearby campsite, I am cheered to discover that Connery himself was actually airlifted onto the Coire for Highlander. It might have been an awful experience, but at least I can now say I climbed a peak James Bond couldn’t hack. My friends enjoy the Coire Lagan more than me, but we all conclude this is a time-consuming and difficult challenge, best suited to seasoned walkers/immortal fictional Highlanders.

Skye is the location of many a fantasy film, its ethereal, jaw-dropping scenery embodies the spirit of traditional Celtic myths. The Fairy Pools in Carbost are the epitome of Skye’s fantastical landscape: situated at the foot of the Cuillins, the pools are a series of naturally formed water holes, featuring turquoise-coloured water and picturesque waterfalls.

We arrive prepared - bikinis and swim trunks on under our clothing - and itching to get in the water after our long and arduous climb. As if willed by the fairies themselves, the sun comes out for the first time all weekend as we strip off our clothes and dive into the water. Our chosen pool is at the foot of the Sgurr an Fheadain mountain, its peak reflected in the crystal clear, rippling waters. The water is surprisingly warm. We spend an hour delightedly bathing in this magical location. It is a remarkable, unforgettable experience.

Damp but happy, we drive home on Skye’s west coast, watching the early evening sun transform into a magnificent sunset. As the sun sets, we drive through the Fairy Glen, situated near Uig and used prominently in Stardust (2007).

As soon as I get out the car, I am wide-eyed; I completely believe fairies live amongst these cone-shaped hills. My five-year-old self who left letters for the fairies at the bottom of my garden resurfaces, delighted, and I am overcome by the still beauty of this place.

We arrive back in the city late on Monday after a quick stop off en route at Eilean Donan, which features in Highlander and Loch Ness (1996), amongst other films. Back in Edinburgh we are still daydreaming about the Highlands and all we have seen and done.

It is easy to see why Scotland has a hold over filmmakers: once seen, these majestic landscapes are not forgotten, immortalised on screen and in the memory of those who visit.

For more information on visiting Scotland, please visit www.visitscotland.com

Set in Scotland: a Film Fan’s Odyssey and the VisitScotland Highlands Movie Map are available to download from: www.visitscotland.com/see-do/attractions/tv-film/

Accommodation: Trotternish Cottage http://www.trotternishcottage.co.uk/

The BFG is released on July 22 2016.

Scotland was voted Best Cinematic Destination by readers of USA Today in a poll in 2015, while research shows that 40 per cent of visitors to the UK are inspired to visit locations after seeing them on film or on television.

Scottish locations to have benefited from their association with movies or television shows include:

Braveheart (1995) – the Wallace Monument in Stirling saw visitor numbers leap from 30,000 a year to nearly 200,000 in 1996.

The Da Vinci Code (2006) – Dan Brown’s 2003 novel had a huge effect on Rosslyn Chapel. Visitor numbers increased by 72 per cent, from 68,603 in 2004 to 118,151 in 2005. In 2006, following the release of the film directed by Ron Howard and starring Tom Hanks, visitor numbers reached 175,053.

Skyfall (2012) – the 23rd film in the James Bond franchise was great news for Glen Coe. Statistics from the National Trust for Scotland revealed that 114,298 people visited the region in 2013/14 - up 41.7 per cent on 2012/13.

Outlander (2014) – Doune Castle, near Stirling, which features prominently in Monty Python and the Holy Grail, doubled for Castle Leoch in the hit television series. From June to August 2015, Doune Castle saw the biggest increase in visitor numbers of all Historic Environment Scotland properties, with three consecutive record-breaking months and an overall rise in visitor numbers of 44 per cent, to 32,540.