In season from August 12 until next month, the red grouse is a game bird with a plump body, a short tail and a lightly hook-tipped bill.
In Great Britain it breeds and lives all year round in the uplands of Scotland, Wales, and northern and south-west England, covering only short distances and feeding on seeds, berries, insects and heather, especially the young tender shoots. When you eat red grouse, you can be sure you’re getting a taste of true wildness.
Look for plump birds with unblemished, fresh-looking deep red skin, avoiding any that seem dry or smell less than fresh.
On a personal note, I’m grateful to the panel of the Scottish Style Awards, who last weekend voted my restaurant at Cameron House by Loch Lomond Scotland’s most stylish restaurant. I’d like to thank Stephen Carter of Cameron House, the team at Ian Smith Design, my head chef Stewart Boyles and manager Steven Strachan.
Roast Grouse with Braised Cabbage, Celeriac Puree and Sauce Albert
Braised savoy cabbage
1 whole savoy cabbage
2 medium-sized carrots
1 onion, peeled and finely sliced
150g smoked bacon
50g duck fat or lard
150ml dry white wine
250ml fresh chicken stock
2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 cloves garlic
A good pinch of salt
Remove the tough outer leaves of the cabbage then cut it into four, discard the core and shred the leaves roughly.
Cut the carrots into long batons, about 5mm thick, and chop the bacon into lardons.
Melt the duck fat in a heavy-based pan and cook the bacon for 3 minutes, then add the carrot and onion and cook for a further 2-3 minutes. Add the cabbage with a good pinch of salt and mix well. Pour in the wine and reduce the sauce, then add the stock, thyme and garlic and bring to the boil.
Cover the cabbage with greaseproof paper and cook in the oven at 200˚C/gas mark 6 for 15-20 minutes.
Celeriac puree
1 medium-sized celeriac
150ml double cream
50g unsalted butter
Trim the celeriac, cut it into large, evenly sized pieces and cook in boiling salted water until tender. Drain and steam off excess moisture, add the cream and simmer until reduced by half. Puree the celeriac in a liquidiser then mix in the butter.
Sauce Albert
300ml milk
1 small onion studded with 3 cloves
1 bay leaf
60g fresh breadcrumbs
30g unsalted butter
1tbsp double cream
1tsp English mustard
1tsp creamed horseradish
Salt and fresh ground pepper
Put the milk in a pan, add the onion and bay leaf, and simmer for 5 minutes.
Stir in the breadcrumbs then add the butter and cream. Stir on a low heat for 5 minutes, then season with salt and fresh ground pepper.
Lastly, stir in the mustard and creamed horseradish. Remember to remove the onion before serving.
Roast grouse
6 fresh grouse, drawn
(insides removed)
6 sprigs thyme
6 cloves garlic, peeled
Vegetable oil for frying
Salt
Preheat the oven to 210°C/gas mark 6.5. Season the skin and cavity of the grouse with salt and stuff each one with a sprig of thyme and garlic clove.
Heat a little oil in a casserole pan and fry the birds lightly until evenly coloured on all sides.
Put the grouse on a tray and cook in the oven for 8-10 minutes.
Once cooked, take the birds out of the oven and let them rest for 10 minutes in a warm place before removing the flesh from the bone and serving.
