AS more and more people take a close interest in where what they eat comes from, a Frenchman running restaurants in Scotland explains why he likes to source as much produce as possible from within the country.

Name:

Fred Berkmiller.

Age:

47.

What is your business called?

l’escargot bleu and l’escargot blanc restaurants.

Where is it based?

Edinburgh, trading from the West End and New Town.

What does it produce?

What we think is the best of French classic cookery using the best Scottish native produce.

To whom does it sell?

Anyone with a genuine interest in food and exploring Scottish produce and French cuisine.

What is its turnover?

£1.7 million.

How many employees?

28.

When was it formed?

Both restaurants were opened in 2009: l’escargot bleu in January and l’escargot blanc in October.

Why did you take the plunge?

I found that I had got to a stage in my career and my life that I felt I had a story to tell, and that this was going to be through food. I had grounds to stand for, and this was very much linked to my arrival in Scotland. Realising there were so many products available and such a rich larder fuelled my ambition to create my own restaurant, sourcing locally and sustainably.

I called the restaurant l’escargot bleu because the French are known for eating snails and frogs, so it made it quickly identifiable as an authentic French restaurant.

Snails have been extremely popular at both restaurants from day one. They feature on the menus all year round, bar December to April when snails hibernate. The Scottish people are passionate about their produce and when they hear I’ve sourced the snails locally they’re even more keen to try them.

I started sourcing snails from Barra in 2013.

What were you doing before you took the plunge?

I was a chef and a gourmet at heart, having worked as a Head Chef in restaurants throughout London, Glasgow and the rest of the UK. Joining the kitchen from the young age of 13, I learnt how to prepare and cook good food. However, most of all, I learnt how to truly enjoy food. Learning facts such as there are over 120 types of apples, and over six types of chicken, really opened my eyes to the depth of what the industry had to offer and taught me to appreciate each ingredient and to respect its individual flavour profile. It also excited me, because I realised there was so much creativity to be had in cooking.

I was working as a Chef in London when I met my partner, Betty, and then followed her up to Scotland.

How did you raise the start-up funding?

I sold my Old Farmhouse Steading on the Southside of Edinburgh and used every penny I made to get a loan that was three and a half times the value in order to purchase the first property.

What was your biggest break?

For me, I’d say the moment that changed everything for me was going to the Castle Terrace Producers Market in Edinburgh in 2003. I spent the day chatting to producers and finding out about their produce. This was when it really clicked with me that Scotland has such an incredible larder. I could tell that Scottish provenance was bound to become a big thing sooner or later.

What was your worst moment?

That’s easy! Not long after opening up l’escargot bleu, I got a call from my Restaurant Manager saying a wedding party of 25 people had turned up but they weren’t in the reservations book. They had indeed made the reservation and paid a deposit but it had somehow been missed off the list. That feeling of dread knowing I had to let a customer down was definitely my worst moment. However, as a peace offering I bought them a big bunch of flowers and transferred them what they would have spent with me to have as Honeymoon spending money.

What do you most enjoy about running the business?

Customers are your biggest critics but also the most loyal followers, so when my customers complement the service or food and appreciate what we’re doing, it gives me a great sense of satisfaction.

What do you least enjoy?

I am hugely independent and used to running my own business the way I like it, so I hate being told anything by anyone.

What is your biggest bugbear?

Customers stealing my salt and peppers, and cheese knives! It happens a lot more than you would think.

What are your ambitions for the firm?

It would be simply to get more and more people to understand the l’escargot message of practicing good, honest, healthy and traditional cooking.

Of course Brexit is a concern for me, not knowing what the future holds. However, I have to accept the decision made by the British people and just get on with it.

What could the Westminster and/or Scottish governments do that would help?

They could give more support to our small food producers, such as re-opening proper kitchens in schools, providing good quality home-cooked food which in turn helps to teach the younger generations the importance and relevance of produce.

What was the most valuable lesson that you learned?

Meeting a friend from the industry who said ‘when you do something in life you knock on the door, if there’s no answer just whack it open, get in and do what you have to do’. In other words, persevere.

How do you relax?

I cook at home for friends and family as much as possible.