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Don't lose faith in power of the people

WHEN the sun is over the yardarm I have been known to allow myself to be dragged to our neighbourhood howff, whose name I must withhold lest it be inundated by sightseers.

It's a place of no airs and few graces. The menu, for example, is limited to pork scratchings and crisps impregnated with chilli. The wine list is similarly unpretentious. Once, I was offered by Ronnie, the erstwhile sommelier, a glass of Chateauneuf du Crap, which at least lived up to its billing.

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