Whisky, haggis, salmon: there's a long roll call of wonderful food and drink that is particularly associated with Scotland, but should we add marmalade to the list?

The organisers of the Marmalade Awards certainly think so and are making a great effort to promote Scots-made versions of the spread. The awards were founded 10 years ago by Jane Hasell-McCosh, but this year the organisers have made a special effort to encourage more Scots to get involved and it's worked: at this year's competition in Cumbria, the finest English marmalades have been joined by 32 entries in the Stirring of the Clans category.

The 32 tasty marlamades have been created by some of Scotland's clans and will be judged on appearance, aroma, consistency, quality and taste. But they may also help to resolve that old cross-border tussle: is marmalade English or Scottish?

The theory that Mary Queen of Scots loved marmalade certainly helps our case, but what matters more is the competition will provide a boost to another great Scottish product. It proves too that, whether marmalade is English or Scottish, an ancient culinary tradition is strill thriving in Scotland.

A record 2,000 jars have been submitted to all categories in this year's competition, including 80 entries for the new McNab category for a marmalade to go with fish, fur and fowl, a hotel and B&B category, and a commercial category.

An early version of quince paste (marmelos) was imported from Portugal to various British ports in the early 15th century and Henry VIII was an early recipient. There is also the story that it was given to Mary Queen of Scots when she fell ill on her journey from France to Scotland (Marie la Malade became marmalade).