• Text size      
  • Send this article to a friend
  • Print this article

Recipe for noshtalgia

THE pioneering Scottish food writer F Marian McNeill, who lived from 1885 until 1973, had a profound effect on Scots cuisine and her first book, The Scots Kitchen, kindled a national pride in our own natural larder and a revolt against the "age of standardisation" that was at large even back then.

Crowdie, grouse, hen's broth, kale and partan Bree were just some of the indigenous dishes she recorded for posterity. Then came fast food burgers, haute cuisine and a fascination with molecular gastronomy.

Scroll forward more than a century, and Scotland's youngest Michelin-starred chef Tom Kitchin is one again waxing lyrical about the joys of Scots pigs' trotters, ox cheek and bone marrow. He has become the first chef to devise three "heritage" dishes, including sheep's heid broth, for the upmarket department store John Lewis, drawing on 150-year-old archives at the National Library of Scotland for inspiration.

What is going on? Why the rush to noshtalgia and food that reminds us of times past? Maybe, just maybe, we've learned the lessons from horsegate and come to accept that granny did know best after all.

Contextual targeting label: 
Food and drink

Commenting & Moderation

We moderate all comments on HeraldScotland on either a pre-moderated or post-moderated basis.
If you're a relatively new user then your comments will be reviewed before publication and if we know you well and trust you then your comments will be subject to moderation only if other users or the moderators believe you've broken the rules

Moderation is undertaken full-time 9am-6pm on weekdays, and on a part-time basis outwith those hours. Please be patient if your posts are not approved instantly.

235516