When Fanny Cradock first hit our television screens back in the 1950s and 1960s, she wasn't afraid of looking her viewers straight in the eye while whipping up the batter for her famous doughnuts.

Or French-inspired souffles and eclairs.

Her sidekick Johnnie even wore a monocle, the better to create the illusion that focusing on the audience, and engaging them directly, was the raison d'etre of the cookery show.

Scroll forward to 2013 and the genre is a different kettle of fish altogether. For chefs (as they now always are) no longer address us square-on. Rather, they tend to speak to someone just out of view as they describe how to spatchcock a chicken, marinade a leg of lamb or bake the perfect scone.

This is really annoying, because it creates an uncomfortable sense of exclusion, as if we, lowly hoi polloi, don't matter as much as the cosy – invisible – clique behind the camera.

As far as I can see, it's the male chefs who are most guilty of this. Step forward Jamie Oliver, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and – yes – even Paul Hollywood, the dashing Great British Bake Off judge whose new TV series has just started.

Maybe they think it looks arty and informal but frankly I think it's downright rude. After all, it's we who pay the licence fee for the privilege of learning from them. Surely they can pay us a bit of respect.

Delia Smith and Nigella Lawson, who like Cradock are cooks rather than chefs, don't do it. Neither does Gizzi Erskine, one of the freshest faces on the scene.

Why are chefs so hellbent on avoiding eye contact? Is it because they're shy and prefer being hidden out of sight in the kitchen? Or is it because they have something to hide? I think we should be told.