Travel across Pakistan and it's impossible to avoid its military history, bases and the trappings of army life. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the country's turbulent North West Frontier Province (NWFP) that borders neighbouring Afghanistan.

During the years I spent based in the NWFP city of Peshawar in the 1980s, I remained fascinated by its famous Bala Hisar Fort and the existence of exotically named Frontier Corps regiments like the Khyber Rifles and Punjabi Rifles who are the guardians of this wild mountainous hinterland.