"Scotland has a strong identity" supermodel Stella Tennant told me during London Fashion Week.
Certainly there's no ignoring the presence of a growing Scottish incumbent in London who are pushing to communicate our nation's wealth of creative talent. At LFW this season big hitters like Christopher Kane and Pringle of Scotland certainly made an impression but it was over on the side-lines at a main schedule presentation that I smiled to see a year-old brand enjoy its first fashion week foray.
Models at Le Kilt sported young and contemporary skirts created by Samantha McCoach who has modernised her family's kilt-making business (Samantha's grandmother has been a traditional kilt maker in Scotland for over 40 years). Founded in 2014, the brand is in its infant stages but it seems Samantha is taking much more than baby steps. Far from old-fashioned, Le Kilt has found solid footing by combining traditional techniques with innovative kilt design in a really effective commercial way.
Speaking of commercialism, it's been two years since Christopher Kane was acquired by luxury group Kering and his latest collection trod a fine balance between pleasing the consumer market and showcasing his creativity. Kane is business savvy and knows that his accessories sell particularly well (especially since he opened his first flagship store in London) but he consistently shows a large and full collection filled with ideas that have great merit. For Autumn Winter 2015 Kane was inspired by the allure of nudity and sexuality. His version of sensuality was more overt that you might expect but it was intriguing to see how optical illusions of nude bodies (taken from life drawing classes) entwined into patterns that looked abstract from afar.
Much like Kane, Holly Fulton dedicated a whole section to bright reds, midnight blacks and greys although Fulton's sirens were much softer with the inclusion of softly wrapped origami-esque fabric draped across the chest in tones of flesh pink and muted pea greens. Beehives and blunt fringes, diamante earrings and strappy dresses all said party girl and I'm sold. Never far from her art deco aesthetic, Fulton's collections are relatable and filled with fun which makes for pleasant and inclusive viewing amidst some of the more avant-garde LFW shows.
Not strictly Scottish in origin but incorporating elements of our flora was Mulberry who showed a beautiful sheepskin coat brushed with a thousand thistles. Inspired by Georgian interiors, the Autumn Winter collection echoed elegant cornicing, mouldings and white paintwork characteristic of grand Georgian homes and used tactile fabrics to give a rich, textural feel throughout. With emphasis on touch, the iconic Bayswater handbag was at its best in a covetable croc calf hair style in rich oxblood. Above all Mulberry is dedicated to craftsmanship which can also be said for Kane and Fulton who have transformed the perception of Scottish design, placing it firmly on the fashion week radar.
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