There is no doubt that Scotland punches above its weight fashion-wise as homegrown designers such as Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders and Holly Fulton reach the forefront of British fashion.
The question now is who will be the next Scottish designer to break through and join them in the world of high fashion?
Judging by the recent Future Fashion design market and runway show at Edinburgh International Fashion Festival, there is an array of talented Scottish designers ready to break into the mainstream fashion world.
The catwalk show featured a range of promising young designers showing their debut collections alongside veteran designers who have established a niche market in Scotland. One such designer is Joyce Paton, whose ladylike hats and full-skirted coatdresses recall the elegance of the iconic Dior New Look collection of 1947. Paton, who has a store in South Queensferry, designs collections that possess feminine elegance from a bygone era. Her designs were shown here with statement jewels from Euan McWhirter, which added to the lady of the manor vibe.
Designer Mairi McDonald is new to the Scottish fashion scene and the collection she showcased at the Future Fashion event is her first. It was a strong debut of wearable feminine creations with a rock 'n' roll edge. Seemingly inspired by the bohemian creations of French designer Isabel Marant, McDonald showcased prairie style mini-dresses and punkish laddered knitwear styled with chunky ankle boots and Wayfarers. From the streets of Stockbridge to the boulevards of Paris, you get the feeling that hipster girls would willingly snap up her designs.
Meanwhile, Obscure Couture offers a fun side to Scottish fashion with its maximalist dressing-up box aesthetic. Helmed by Jenn Coyle and Lyndsay Pagan, the brand is known for its wacky designs featuring a multitude of leather, tulle and bright colour. This time they had toned down the colours and used only black and nude in their collection. Stand-out pieces included a bondage-inspired gown and a striped fishtail train skirt. The club kid vibe works well for the brand and as such they have a loyal following among young fashion-obsessed Scots.
The label Bebaroque is also run by a female design double act. Established in 2007 by Chloe Patience and Mhairi McNicol, their designs have been worn by pop stars such as Katy Perry, Lady Gaga and Kelis. The pair, who met while studying at Glasgow School of Art, have recently branched out to produce bodysuits, dresses and tops as well as their signature embellished and printed tights.
Designer Rebecca Torres has gained a reputation for colourful bodycon dresses. The Glasgow-based designer has continued to develop her design aesthetic and in her most recent collection she has integrated printed panels into her signature dresses. This is a wise move as it taps into the fashion world’s current love affair with print. The colour combinations of orange, turquoise and hot pink with flashes of neutral white, black and grey provide an added edge.
Edinburgh-based designer Jacob Birge takes an experimental direction with his brand Jacob Birge Vision. Birge’s collection for uutumn/winter 2013 features neoprene garments in black, orange and blue that look like a high-fashion version of the uniforms worn by Captain Kirk and Spock on the Starship Enterprise. While the large peaked caps detracted from the overall look, the stiff bell-sleeved jackets and oversized trousers recalled the work of Cristobal Balenciaga from the 1960s. Birge’s resort 2014 collection, meanwhile, was altogether simpler and was rendered entirely in black and white. It featured dresses and separates created from leather and featuring prints and cut-out details that were reminiscent of a computer mainframe.
Scottish cashmere brand Cameron Taylor represented Scotland’s historic knitwear industry. The wearable collection of chunky cashmere cardigans, snoods and cable-knit headbands was perfect for the upcoming autumn/winter season. With each item produced by a small factory in the Borders, it provided a reminder of Scotland’s long and distinguished fashion history.
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