By HAMISH MARTIN
CHRISTMAS is a time for extravagance; for splashing out on a special bottle or two. It's all too easy to get stressed by the drinks choice for Christmas Day, but remember that the wine element is there to be enjoyed as part of the dining experience, and won't make or break the whole day. If your favourite wine of all time is a Mexican Viognier, enjoy it with your turkey, but otherwise it may be an idea to stick to the classics.
Why not start with a bang and go with fizz to stimulate the palate in readiness for the feast that is to come? Then pick a Pinot Noir (either Burgundy or a carefully chosen New World Pinot from a cool climate) with turkey, goose or game. Claret is the best bet with roast beef or venison, and don't forget a nice dessert wine for the pudding. To finish in a traditional manner, a wee port always goes down well with the stilton.
Bearing all this in mind, I have put together a case of delights, and although some do blow the budget, they all represent value for money in their own way.
Start with a Bellini cocktail (Prosecco with peach nectar.) Take a chilled flute and half-fill it with the peach nectar, then top up with Prosecco. Try Aldi's Prosecco Spumante Grand Mori (£4.99).
Or for sheer decadence, Billecart-Salmon Rosé Brut Champagne (Inverarity One to One £40, Oddbins £54.99) is my favourite pink drink. An 80/20 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it's perfectly balanced, beautifully lush and a real festive treat.
Turning to Geoff's recipes, my personal preference for smoked salmon is Pouilly-Fume, and Majestic currently have an impressive selection including the Pouilly-Fume Prestige des Fines Caillottes 2006 Jean Pabiot (£13.99). The grapes are from a single vineyard of old vines, giving the wine a more intense palate.
During my last visit to Oddbins, I was delighted to find some new offerings in white wine. Particularly impressive was their Bourgogne Chardonnay 2006 Frederic Magnien (£12.99), which had a nice balance between spiced apple and the nutty oak.
With Geoff's roast, Pinot Noir is king, but you'll rarely find a more difficult-to-grow grape. In Burgundy, stick to a producer you know and trust, as good producers will always deliver a decent wine. Adamas is one such producer and their Nuits-Saint-Georges 2006 (Inverarity One to One, £26.99) is excellent. Outside of Burgundy, try Tasmania's Ninth Island Pinot Noir (Inverarity One to One, £11, bin end) or New Zealand's Dashwood Pinot Noir (Oddbins, £11.49).
If Pinot doesn't push your buttons, try a bottle of the new Urban Malbec 2007 (Oddbins £5.99), if you can get there before the staff finish them off.
With dessert, Majestic's Concha y Toro Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (£4.99 for a half-bottle) is a good all-rounder and excellent value. And with the cheese, it has to be Noval's Unfiltered LBV (Inverarity One to One £14.99) for a traditionally-made taste explosion.
If you can manage a little somethnig for afters, Tesco now stocks Leitz's Riesling Kabinett (£8.54 per bottle when you buy a case online) and you'd struggle to find a more mouthwatering German Riesling for under a tenner.
Hamish Martin is managing director of Inverarity One to One, 185 Bath Street, Glasgow, www.inverarity121.com
