A Snail's Pace: goat ragout with goat kebab

I remember one of the first times I cooked goat was back in the late eighties in Corsica, these were wild goats, called cabri. It's nice meat, which needs some work, but it's well worth it. It's usually cooked as a ragout or stew and it's best to leave it cooking for a fair bit of time so it turns really tender. You can't go wrong with adding lots of herbs like rosemary and thyme and your choice of different spices.

We've had a few goats delivered over the last couple of weeks and they've sold exceptionally well. I remember a few years ago my friend Dominic bought around 20 goats for us. He was happy to have the goats on his farm until he realised that those little devils eat absolutely everything they can reach, even the Christmas tree! All of them were sent to the abattoirs and sold on at L'escargot bleu and blanc.... I don't think he's ever bought goats again!

This month our goats have come from Gorgie City Farm on Gorgie Road, I am sure many of you have visited it before with your children. We've been buying animals and supporting the farm for over a year now. I'm hoping to get rabbit, ducks and chickens next.

Goat Ragout with Goat Kebab - Serves 4/6

Ragout ingredients:
1 shoulder/leg of goat, cut into large chunks
1 carrot, peeled and diced
2 onions, peeled and diced
1 celery stalk, diced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 bouquet garni
1 tbsp. harissa
1 tbsp. tomato puree
1 tomato, diced
2 large tbsp. argan oil
300ml chicken stock
Fresh thyme, rosemary and coriander
Salt, pepper and spices to taste

Kebab ingredients;
1 goat belly
1 tbsp. chopped parsley
1 tbsp. finely chopped chives
1 tbsp. finely chopped shallots or onions
1 tbsp. finely chopped garlic
1 egg
1 tbsp. double cream
Salt, pepper and spices to taste

Method

The night before, season your goat with salt, pepper, harrissa, thyme, rosemary and argan oil. Cover with cling film and refrigerate for 24 hours.

1.       Remove the goat from the fridge and leave to reach room temperature.

2.       Peel, wash and prepare all of your vegetables. Put to one side.

3.       Warm the vegetable oil and butter in a heavy bottomed pot with a lid on a medium heat. Sear the diced goat for at least 10 minutes or until it turns a dark golden colour, be careful not to burn it.

4.       Add the onions, carrots and celery. Keep stirring for another 10 minutes.

5.       Add the tomato puree and stock and bring to a boil. Add the bouquet garni and cover with a lid and cook for an hour and a half on a very low heat. If it's easier, you can cook it in the oven at 160°C for the same time.

Meanwhile, it's time to make your kebabs. I love a good kebab but sadly in this country kebabs aren't often of high quality but I can assure you these kebabs taste delicious.

1.       Put all of the meat in a bowl with the herbs, garlic, onions, spices, egg, double cream and argan oil and put it all through the mincer (If possible, get your butcher to mince it for you. I'd recommend the Eastern Asian butcher in Nicolson Square, they also sell goat).

2.       Cook a little bit of the kebab mix in a frying pan. Taste it and then season the whole mix again to your liking. You can adjust the taste very easily just by adding a few extra fresh herbs. More harissa, more spice, it's up to you just follow your taste buds.

3.       When you're happy with the flavour, roll the kebab in your hands and put a skewer through the middle. Cook the skewers in the oven or under the grill until cooked through.

4.       Once your skewers are cooked, get the ragout out of the oven, taste it, season it, add freshly chopped coriander and taste again.

5.       Serve the ragout with the kebab skewers rested on top. This dish goes perfectly with roasted root vegetables like parsnips, carrots, leeks and of course potatoes. Enjoy with a glass or two of a nice merlot. Bon appétit!