We stumbled across a Parisian bistro 10 years ago, Chez something, as impossible to relocate as it was charming.

Pot au feu was its dish of the day. Every guest, as far as we could make out, was ordering it. We took our lead from those in the know.

A large pan of deeply flavoured chicken stock simmers for several hours as the chef, at intervals, adds to it the selection of different meats, according to how long each will require. Brisket, tongue and boiling fowl usually feature, perhaps a trotter or two, some bone marrow, all brought to readiness at the same moment after gentle poaching. Onions, carrots, herbs and peppercorns infuse the liquid for hours too, which by the end is an intensely flavoured broth, ladled into bowls with slices of the different cuts.

With all that meatiness and long cooking, you might expect a dish of real heaviness. In fact, the broth is surprisingly elegant; the meats, being poached not roasted, are not a sticky caramelised mountain of richness, but succulent with undisguised purity, patiently rendered tender.

In contrast, the prickly heat of the traditional accompanying condiments packs a spicy punch. A selection of mustards is essential, as are pickled onions and small gherkins; I enjoy a sharp blast of horseradish to slice through everything.

If recreating a pot au feu at home seems intimidating, you could easily cherry pick from the meats to make one smaller simpler dish, such as this warm tongue salad.

Warm salad of tongue with pickled vegetables and grain mustard dressing

Serves 4

1 large tongue

2 carrots, peeled and sliced in rounds

1 onion, peeled and cut in two through the root

2 sticks of celery

1 leek, cut in half lengthways

A few sprigs of thyme and rosemary

1 level teaspoon of black peppercorns

for the salad

100g mixed salad leaves of your choice

Half a cucumber

A pack of radishes

5 small button onions or pearl onions

200ml white wine vineagar

150g caster sugar

for the dressing

1 rounded dessertspoon of grain mustard

A pinch of sugar and salt

75ml white wine vinegar

200ml olive oil

1 Soak the tongue in a large container of cold water for at least eight hours, or overnight, refrigerated. Lift out and rinse briefly under cold running water then transfer to a saucepan.

2 Add the carrots, onions, celery, leek, herbs and peppercorns. Cover with water then bring to a gentle simmer. Cook until the tongue is cooked - this will take about two hours for a small tongue and up to three for a big one. To test, lift the tongue just above the water level, holding it firmly with a pair of tongs. If the skin around the tip comes away effortlessly, it is done. If it is sticking, cook for longer. Once done, turn off the heat and leave to stand for 30 minutes.

3 Remove the tongue from the liquid and stand on a large dish until cool enough to handle, but still very warm. This is important or this next step becomes very difficult.

4 Peel away the outer layer of thick yellowish-brownish skin from the surface of the tongue. Once removed, slice away the root at the base to create a smooth contour along the base of the tongue. Place this cleaned, cooked tongue on a dish and chill. All this can be done in advance, or even the day before.

5 Slice the tongue lengthways and trim to give four even-sized pieces of tongue, roughly rectangular in shape, about 1cm in thickness, 6cm wide and 16cm long, or as long as the tongue allows. Set aside for the moment and prepare the salad garnishes

6 Cut the onions into four lengthways through the root then prise the onion layers apart to form small pieces rather like petals. Slice the cucumber and radishes as thinly as possible.

7 Combine the vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan and warm gently so the sugar dissolves. Add the onions and leave to steep until cool then, once cold, add the cucumber slices. Do not add when warm or this will cause the cucumber to discolour and lose its texture.

8 Make the dressing in advance: place all the ingredients except for the oil into a mixing bowl and whisk together briefly to combine before drizzling the oil in slowly, while whisking all the time. Refrigerate in a jar with a screw cap lid until needed. Shake well before use

9 To serve: heat a wide frying pan and add a light film of vegetable oil. Season each piece of tongue with sea slat flakes and freshly ground black pepper then brown on both sides in the hot oil. This will take just a couple of minutes for each piece. If necessary, cook one or two at a time so the pan is not overcrowded. Place the pieces of tongue on a plate as you go, covered loosely with tin foil once caramelised to keep warm.

10 Once all are browned, divide between four serving plates, placing one piece in the middle of each dish. Drain the onions and cucumber slices from the pickling liquor on absorbent kitchen paper towel and scatter along each piece of tongue. Scatter the radishes as well then divide the salad leaves over the top. Drizzle with a spoonful of the grain mustard dressing and serve at once.

Classic pot au feu

Serves 8

1 piece of beef brisket, 2kg, tied and rolled

1 large ox tongue rinsed in cold water for at least an hour

6 cylinder-shaped pieces of marrow bone, about 2 -3 inches in length

1 boiling fowl

200ml white wine

2 onions, peeled but with the root still intact

8 small carrots, peeled

4 leeks, with the green part removed (but reserved)

6 sticks of celery

2 turnips cut into four

A generous sprig of thyme and rosemary parsley stalks

1 tsp black peppercorns

water to cover

Method

1 The day before, or eight hours in advance, place the marrow bones in a large tub of cold water and add a dessertspoon of salt. Refrigerate until needed.

2 Slice the onions in half, through the root, so that each half has a piece of the root holding the body of the onion together. Heat a frying pan for one minute then add a dessertspoon of vegetable oil. Place the onions in the pan, cut side down, and caramelise slowly until deep golden brown on the face, for about 5 to 10 minutes. Once golden brown, add the wine and reduce by half then turn off the heat.

3 Place the beef in a large stock pan. Add the onions and their liquid from the pan. Cover with cold water and bring slowly to a simmer. Skim any impurities with a ladle or slotted spoon. Add the vegetables and reduce the heat to a simmer.

4 On a chopping board, spread out some of the green part of the leek to form a little square. Place the herbs and peppercorns in the middle and roll up tightly, securing with string to form a bouquet garni. Add this to the liquid. Continue simmering for 60 minutes then add the tongue. Cook for 60 minutes then lower in the fowl. Continue cooking for a further 90 minutes. This is a total of three and a half hours. Throughout the process, every 20 minutes or so, skim the surface to remove the impurities and fat. Top up with water if needed to ensure the meats remain covered. Adding cold water will also help to throw fat and impurities to the surface of the liquid.

5 After three and a half hours' cooking time has elapsed, remove the tongue with tongs, lifting it on to a tray. Leave to stand until cool enough to handle, about 10-15 minutes.

6 Drain the marrow bone and add to the pot.

7 With the tongue still warm, peel off the outer membrane: start at the tip of the tongue, trimming off the fatty knot of tissue at the base, then return the tongue to the pot.

8 To serve, lift the meats out on to a large tray and carve pieces from each of the meats on to individual serving bowls. You can divide the vegetables as well and also give each person a marrow bone, seasoned with sea salt and served with a teaspoon for scooping out the marrow fat inside. Taste the broth for seasoning and adjust as required, then ladle into the serving bowls. Serve with mustard, horseradish, pickled onions and cornichons.