Cooking with cobnuts

Celebrity chef

Sunday 30 September 2012

Scampering home, dodging the showers, I place my shopping on the table and pluck one particular bag from among all the others.

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By Geoffrey Smeddle

My fingers rummage among the contents, feeling the slightly scratchy sharp outline of the husks, some still stuck together in little bundles of two or three, some have rolled apart individually. I pick one up and press my thumb against the thistle-shaped husk, it pops away easily enough, revealing the pale smoothness of the lichen-green shell beneath. A light crack with a small hammer will split it, revealing the treasure inside. This is my first bag of British cobnuts of the autumn.

Cobnuts are one of September's loveliest treats and our most special native nut. You could be fooled into thinking this is a hazelnut on first sight, the colour and size are so similar, even the taste is not unrelated. But there is a subtlety and gentleness about the flavour of the cobnut which makes it special. Sweetness replaces the bitterness so common with other nuts. Its texture – crumbly, rather than brittle or crunchy, adds to this mildness. Toasting the nuts will intensify the flavour, of course, but I think this mild, almost milky taste is an essential part of their charm, not to be lost. Cobnuts are wonderful scattered over autumn salads, perhaps pumpkin and goat cheese or over meats now autumnal game is rolling into season. Topped on simple canapes they bring finesse and distinctiveness, even cozying up easily to chocolate desserts. Chopped coarse liver pate with cobnuts Recipes serve four 200g trimmed duck livers, soaked in milk for a few hours to bleach impurities 100g unsalted butter, soft, at room temperature 2 banana shallots peeled A sprig of thyme 1 tsp of peppercorns 100ml each of brandy, ruby port and madeira, or a mix as desired 2 radishes Suitable bread for croutons, grilled or toasted 12-15 cobnuts 1 Slice one of the shallots into rings and place in a small sauce pan, add the alcohol, thyme and peppercorns and bring to a boil and reduce until you have a dessertspoon worth of liquid, pass this through a small strainer into a small bowl and set aside. Discard the shallots and herbs left in the strainer. 2 Drain the livers from the milk and leave to stand so excess milk drips off. Heat a wide frying pan that will hold all the livers easily. Add a light film of vegetable oil to the pan and let it become shimmering hot then add all the livers, fry over a very high heat turning regularly with tongs, cooking for no more than a couple of minutes so they are seared and crusty on the outside but still pink on the inside. Drain in a clean colander over a bowl and let stand for a few minutes to cool slightly, however they should remain warm for the next step. 3 Now place the livers on a chopping board and chop thoroughly to a coarse texture which is almost smooth but still with some texture to it. Transfer to a clean bowl and beat the butter in with a spatula. Add the reduced alcohol and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a piping bag and chill; this can be made and stored for up to 24 hours 4 To prepare the cob nuts: peel away the outer husk to leave you the shell. Place the nuts in a clear plastic bag and place this on a chopping board. With a small hammer, give a sharp tap to each nut so the shell cracks and opens to reveal the nut inside. Now peel away the shell from each nut with your fingers, reserving the nuts in a small dish as you go. Once they are all peeled, store in an airtight tub for up to several days, the fresher the better, to enjoy the texture and flavour before drying occurs 5 To serve: remove the piping bag from the fridge 45 minutes before using so it can soften. While waiting, slice the remaining shallot and the radishes into very fine rounds. Pipe the pate onto the toasts then press a few cobnuts onto each one, finally scatter the shallot and radishes over the top then serve as canapes or with roasted game birds. Buttered kale with garlic and cobnuts 100g butter 2 garlic cloves, chopped About 20 cobnuts 500g curly kale 1 lemon Salt and freshly ground nutmeg and black pepper Hazelnut oil, optional, about 1 dessertspoon 1 Pick the stalks from the kale and discard them then wash the leaves carefully, drying them gently but thoroughly. Set aside for now 2 Prepare the cobnuts: peel off the husks, discard these then break open the nuts from the shells, the best way to do this is in a plastic bag, as described above. Once the nuts are removed from the shell, chop them in two then store in an airtight container for up to three days until needed. 3 To cook: heat a wide frying pan or wok over a moderate heat. Add a spoonful of vegetable oil and the butter then fry the garlic gently, taking care not to let it colour or the flavour will turn bitter. After one minute, add the cobnuts and cook for a further minute. Now increase the heat then add the leaves of kale. Toss once or twice to mix in the garlic then add the juice and zest of the lemon. Fry briskly, stirring regularly, for three to four minutes, then season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Finally, if using, add the hazelnut oil, transfer to a warm serving dish and serve at once.

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