AT some point almost every day I find myself popping the lid off a jar of mustard.

A dab of this versatile condiment has become like seasoning, so essential that I cannot be without it, either at home or in the restaurant.

Is it my upbringing? At home, the mustard of choice was vivid yellow English mustard - never from a jar mind you, but always mixed to a paste with water from the tiny tin containing the dangerously strong powder. My father appointed himself chief mustard maker, mainly because no-one else actually ate it. He would dot it on the side of his plate (his modest smear was an unspoken admission that it was too fiery for us children) before urging others to indulge, sharing his adored mustard. Roast beef, pork chops, sandwiches or boiled ham were (and are) unthinkable for him without it.

That yellow powder still has a place at home when making vinaigrette but these days I prefer the pungent warmth of Dijon or the textured, faintly vinegared edge of grain mustard over English mustard's intense heat. A spoonful of Dijon spread beneath the skin of a chicken breast before roasting, tossed into a pan of green beans and broccoli or whisked into marinades transforms everyday dishes into savoury delights: Dijon might be the perfect convenience food. Try swirling grain mustard into sauces, braised red cabbage and wintery stews, as a last-minute addition to sharpen the flavour as well as the appetite.

Double cabbage coleslaw with grain mustard and honey

Recipes serve six

320g mayonnaise

2 tblsp of grain mustard, or to taste

1 dstspn Dijon mustard

2 dstspn runny honey

½ small white cabbage

½ small red cabbage

1 green chilli

2 limes

2 carrots

Method

1. Cut the white cabbage in half through the root. Cut out and discard the root and finely shred the leaves. Transfer to a large mixing bowl. Repeat with the red cabbage, then add to the bowl.

2. Peel the carrots with a swivel-head peeler then grate on the coarsest side of a box grater. Add to the cabbage and toss together well.

3. Place the mayonnaise in a separate bowl and add honey and the mustards. Halve the chilli lengthways, discard the seeds then dice finely, add to the mayonnaise mixture and stir in well.

4. Grate the zest of the limes into the mayonnaise mixture then cut the limes in two and squeeze the juice into the mayonnaise, stirring in well. This can be prepared to this point in advance, up to a couple of hours before serving.

5. To finish and serve: fold mayonnaise mixture into shredded cabbage mixture, season with sea salt then with a large spoon and fork, toss well to combine. Do this no more than 30 minutes before serving as the red cabbage can stain and run.

Roast chicken legs with mustard butter

6 chicken legs

2 dstspn Dijon mustard

Olive oil, butter, salt and fresh ground black pepper for cooking and seasoning

A few sprigs of thyme

1 garlic clove

For the butter

150g unsalted butter, soft at room temperature

1 rounded dstspn chopped parsley

Pinch of smoked paprika

1 rounded dstspn grain mustard

1 tsp Dijon mustard

A squeeze of juice from a lemon wedge

Method

1. Make the butter in advance: place all ingredients except the butter in a mixing bowl and stir well to combine. Now add the butter and beat in gently but thoroughly with a rubber spatula. Spread a sheet of cling film out about the size of a chopping board. Spoon the butter mixture along the front edge, roughly in a sausage shape, then roll the cling film up to shape the butter into a tight cylindrical shape. Place in the fridge to chill (this can be made a day or two in advance or can be made and frozen).

2. To prepare the chicken: lift a loose edge of skin from around the side of the chicken leg and spread some Dijon mustard underneath, spreading evenly across the meat. Pull the skin back over the chicken leg and chill until needed.

3. To cook the chicken: pre-heat oven to 180C. Heat a frying pan over a moderate heat for one minute then add two spoonfuls of vegetable oil. Add the thyme and garlic to the oil then season the chicken all over with sea salt flakes then place skin-side down in the hot frying pan and allow to brown all over, then transfer to a baking sheet. Spoon the oil, thyme and garlic over the chicken then transfer the tray to the oven and cook for 15 to 20 minutes or until fully cooked.

4. Remove from the oven and stand to rest for five minutes. Meanwhile, slice the butter into thick coins allowing one per person. Divide the chicken between six serving plates and arrange a piece of butter on each so the warmth melts it in front of each person at the table. Serve with sauté potatoes and a green salad.

Geoffrey Smeddle is the chef patron of The Peat Inn, by St Andrews, Fife Ky15 5LH 01334 840206 www.thepeatinn.co.uk