Though delicate, quail are surprisingly plump birds, with a sweet flavour and tender, lean meat.

Their small stature means they are quick to cook and best served whole - the same applies to jumbo quail, which you can source online or from your butcher. The simple stuffing is easy to make - make sure to use very fresh chicken livers, as they will be firm and flavoursome when cooked - as is the sauce.

Roast stuffed jumbo quail with cherries and grapes

Serves 4

Stuffing

3tbsp olive oil

50g bacon lardons

1 clove of garlic, chopped

150g mushrooms, washed and sliced

125g chopped onion

Grated zest of 1 lemon

8 sprigs of fresh thyme

80g long grain rice

500ml chicken stock

100g butter

250g chicken livers, cleaned

4 jumbo quail

8 pancetta slices

Warm the olive oil in a saute pan, add the lardons and cook gently until golden brown. Add the garlic, mushrooms, onion, lemon zest and thyme and cook for a further 2 minutes over a moderate heat.

Add the rice to the pan and stir well, then add the chicken stock and half the butter and cover the pan with a lid. Lower the heat, simmer gently for 15 minutes then remove the pan from the heat and leave to rest for 10 minutes.

Strain the rice mixture and discard any stock in the pan then transfer the rice mixture to a tray and allow to cool.

Clean the pan then heat the remaining butter. When it foams, cook the chicken livers for 2 minutes then transfer them on to a chopping board. Chop the livers finely then add them to the cooling rice.

When the rice has cooled fill each quail with it then wrap two slices of pancetta around each bird and tie the legs together with cooking string.

Quail

4tbsp olive oil

4 quail, prepared as above

120ml sweet sherry

150ml chicken stock

100g dried cherries

40 green grapes

20g cold butter

Set the oven to 190C/gas mark 5.

Place the birds on a roasting tray, pour 1tbsp olive oil over the top of each quail then roast them in the oven for 10 minutes. Add the sherry to the tray and put the birds back in the oven for 10 minutes.

Transfer the cooked quail to a plate, cover with tinfoil and keep warm. Place the roasting tray on a moderate heat, add the chicken stock, cherries and grapes, and simmer gently until the liquid has reduced by two-thirds, then whisk in the butter.

Place each quail on a large plate, spoon the juices and fruit over the top, and serve immediately.