This chowder is based on the famous Cullen skink.

Both are hearty soups ideal for this time of year and best made with Finnan haddock.

I use a roux of butter and flour (called a panade in classic French cuisine) for thickening the chowder, which thanks to the inclusion of leeks and potato is a meal in itself - simple, wholesome and delicious.

Smoked haddock chowder

Serves 4

350g good-quality smoked haddock

500ml milk

50g butter

Half an onion, finely sliced

150g potatoes, peeled and cut into 1cm dice

The white of 1 leek, washed and finely sliced

200ml fish stock

A small pinch of ground nutmeg

1tbsp panade (half tbsp soft butter and half tbsp plain flour mixed to a paste)

200ml double cream

2 hardboiled eggs, peeled and cut into quarters

1tbsp chopped chives

First, remove any pin bones from the fish using a pair of tweezers.

Pour the milk into a heavy-based saucepan then add the fish. Bring the milk to the boil then turn down the heat and simmer gently for 2 minutes. Carefully remove the fish from the milk with a slotted spoon and set both aside.

Place a medium-sized pan over a moderate heat and add the butter. When the butter has melted, add the onion, potatoes and leek and sweat for 4-5 minutes. Then add the poaching milk from the haddock, fish stock and nutmeg and simmer for 25 minutes.

Next whisk in the panade a little at a time before whisking in the double cream and gently flaking the haddock into the chowder.

Immediately before serving, add the hardboiled eggs and chives and adjust the seasoning if required.