Wine has always travelled by sea, though much of the romance has worn off.

Today it is shipped in bulk. The majority of Australian, Chilean and South African wine drunk here now comes in giant, 24,000 litre plastic bladders and is bottled on arrival.

Back in the old days, shipping by bulk meant in wooden barrels, in smaller vessels that sailed from Scottish ports to Bordeaux and as far as the islands of Madeira and the Canaries. The trade in casks lasted a lot longer that you might imagine.

"The last vintage shipped and bottled in Ayr was 1970," says Bryce Fraser of Corney & Barrow, who bought the town's old wine merchant, Whigham's of Ayr, 20 years ago. The Ayrshire claret may have gone, but every Christmas there are still a few cases of Ayrshire port for sale.

The business was founded in 1766 by a partnership of local lairds and merchants led by Alexander Oliphant. Not much has changed, especially down in the cellars where casks were rolled in through a trapdoor to be stored. When ready, the bung would be removed and the contents disgorged into bottles.

Centuries of wine fumes have given the cellar its wonderful musty smell. With the temperature barely changing throughout the year it's perfect for storing wine, I was told on my subterranean tour.

The casks have been replaced by stacks of wooden cases belonging to private clients and are stamped with the big names of Bordeaux - Petrus, Margaux and Latour.

Fraser is coy about their value, but it must run to millions. You wonder if the good folk of Ayr have a clue what riches lies beneath their feet in these cellars. Upstairs in the shop are wines for lesser mortals, but some cracking ones at that. The firm's main business is supplying hotels and restaurants and you have to be pretty competitive, says Fraser. Here you can find some of those delicious gems that never seem to get beyond a restaurant list.

Corney & Barrow, 8 Academy Street, Ayr (ayr@corneyandbarrow.com)