If it's all over Twitter, then usually it's old news. But despite comedian Hardeep Singh Kohli's new curry bar VDeep being mentioned here, there and everywhere online, very few have actually ventured inside. Mainly because it's not open yet.
When I visit to match craft beers (that's the V part of the restaurant name; the bar used to house The Vintage bar with its fine selection of brews until recent times) with curry (Deep, as in the proprietor's surname) there is scaffolding up inside. There is a side plate littered with leftover cubes of tomato languishing on a back table. There is a black Boston terrier called Frank and I have no idea why he is here because none of it makes any sense. But these are the days before the grand opening, where a little bit of madness and mayhem infuse into the masala and it doesn't matter one bit because soon it will be cleared away for eating and drinking. The official opening of the doors is nearly here.
Kohli, in a medium-rare shade of turban, is a warm host: charismatic and charming and, as every interview subject should be, pushing a large platter of curry tapas in my face. He says I am the first person to sample the naan bread that monopolises the board. It is the size and shape of an orthopaedic pillow. It would bring Jason Statham to tears with its fragrant piquancy, if Jason Statham ever used those words. In short it's the best I've tasted, but it's not just eating that's important here.
The beauty of VDeep is that it's a natural extension of a simple premise, and something that should have happened years ago. Beer and curry is a winning combination, but why not expand the drinkable accompaniment to include well-balanced, flavoursome options? We hear there is a Scottish beer revolution. Mister SK has acted on it, like the spicy comrade he is.
Combining HSK's food expertise and my voracious appetite for alcohol, we present the Hardeep Singh Kohli and HeraldScotland beer and curry pairing.
Clockwise on platter, from top left.
Butter chicken (chicken tikka in a masala sauce)
Hardeep Singh Kohli: "This is entry level curry. It combines three of my favourite things: barbecued flesh, butter and spice."
HeraldScotland: "Speaking as someone with a spice-induced stomach ulcer, this is worth risking one's health for. Sharpen the mouth up with a Drygate Bearface."
Mutton Achari (slow-cooked mutton in pickling spices)
HSK: "If the only pickle you've tried thus far is Branston, come into my life."
HS: "Gentleman's Wit, by Camden Town Brewery, with its wheaty, lemony, bergamoty vibe, matches the achari's complexity. I definitely didn't just read that off the back of the bottle."
Dhal Mhakani (three bean dhal with turtle-, urad dhal- and red kidney-beans)
HSK: "This is the dhal I remember from before remembering."
HS: "I'm being polite and pretending I like this Amuse Rhubarb beer by Wild Deer because Hardeep loves it. My immature palate tells me it tastes a bit like wee, but it's likely my issue."
Coconut chutney
HSK: "There's nothing more South Indian than this chutney. Fresh. Light. Packs a profound punch."
HS: "Let's take things down a notch. Lower the lights if you will. It's time for something dark - Williams Bros' Black Ball Stout sounds filthy, is delicious."
Slow-roasted tomato chutney
HSK: "It's what I think Iowa should taste like. And it's pure John Paul Jones and John Bonham."
HS: "Who're those guys?"
HSK: "Get out. We can no longer be friends."
VDeep, located at 60 Henderson Street, Edinburgh, will open Saturday 21st February. For more information visit www.vdeep.co.uk
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