Running parallel with a growing appreciation of top-quality modern Scottish cuisine by Scots-born chefs is evidence that our love affair with Italian food continues unabated.

Last week in Edinburgh, Victor and Carina Contini formally opened a third major outlet, Caffe Contini, in the 16th-century Cannonball House on the Royal Mile. Alongside an artisan gelateria serving authentic home-made Italian milk ices, it also does Italian street food in the cafe as well as modern Scots-Italian dishes in the restaurant. It's the latest addition to the couple's growing empire of Contini Ristorante and The Scottish Cafe & Restaurant at the Scottish National Gallery. Meanwhile, the famous Valvona & Crolla deli and restaurant, run by Victor's brother Philip and Carina's sister Mary, continues to thrive alongside its second outlet Vincaffe.

The Glasgow-based mid-priced multiple Di Maggio's - founded by Mario Gizzi and Joe Conetta in 1985 - continues to expand its empire throughout Scotland and beyond and now has restaurants under the Amarone, Barolo Grill and Cafe Andaluz brands as well as Di Maggio's. But these family businesses are far from sole operators. Tony Macaroni is perhaps the fast-growing Scots-Italian chain, established in 2007 by Sep Marini, whose father Giuseppe founded the Marini's chain of fish and chip shops 40 years ago. Sep Marini is also a director of Nardini's of Largs, which has opened a successful first branch in Edinburgh - next door to the old Scots-Italian family business Luca's of Musselburgh.

The Scots-Italian connection began in the late 1890s, when economic migrants fleeing poverty, famine and drought in their homeland arrived on our shores and began to sell ice-cream and fish and chips using the dairy produce, seafood and potatoes that were readily available locally. Many remained in the port cities and towns of Glasgow, Greenock and Edinburgh (it's worth mentioning that Paolo Nutini's great-grandfather's chippie, Castelvecchio in Paisley, is still going strong exactly 100 years after it was founded). It was only from the 1930s that authentic Italian dishes such as pizza and pasta were introduced as the Italians became more established in Scottish life. By the beginning of the 20th century there were an estimated 4000-plus Scots-Italians, and Glasgow had the third largest community in the UK. Now there are an estimated 80,000, and it is believed almost 70 per cent can trace their roots back to the two regions of Tuscany and Lazio. Most of those of Tuscan origin settled in the Glasgow area, while most of those from Lazio made their homes in Edinburgh and the east.

It's interesting that competition appears to be keenest between old Scots-Italian family businesses as they find innovative ways of staying ahead of the game in the face of new arrivals from cash-rich, UK-wide chains keen to establish a presence in Scotland. These include Carluccio's, Jamie's Italian, Prezzo, Pesto, Frankie & Benny's, and Zizzi. I'm told that indigenous family brands are having to work much harder than before just to keep Romulus from the door, as it were. Paperino's, run by brothers Stefano and Sandro Giovanazzi, wisely withdrew from Glasgow city centre to grow its presence in the west end after both Pesto and Prezzo set up shop nearby; they plan another neighbourhood restaurant.

Competition isn't always a bad thing if it ups the ante in terms of quality and front-of-house service. The UK-wide chains, with their economies of scale, can afford to bring down prices by buying ingredients centrally and redistributing them to "regional" chefs who follow the agreed recipe. This template is no doubt also used by the expanding Scottish chains. The independents, on the other hand, can also win out by offering food that is made from scratch on the premises using locally sourced ingredients and to chef's own recipe. Even if that translates into higher prices, it means all tastes are catered for. At least, that's the theory.

It all boils down to an enduring affection for pasta, pizza and panettone at any price, for it appears that eating Italian is a permanent part of our culinary culture.

Italians are known for their conviviality - the very essence, I would argue, of good eating - and to celebrate their continued success in this country the Scottish Italian Awards take place every year. Readers are encouraged to vote for their favourite Italian food business in a number of different categories for this year's awards ceremony, which takes place at the Thistle Hotel, Glasgow, on October 26. This year has a Milan theme, celebrating the Italian city of fashion, food and drink.

The celebrity judge is Aldo Zilli, the award-winning chef and restaurateur who founded some of London's most innovative restaurants including Signor Zilli, Zilli Fish, Zilli Green, Zilli Cafe and Zilli Bar. His Italian seafood restaurant, Zilli Fish, became a Soho institution until Senor Zilli decided to hang up the chef's whites and embark on other ventures.

The deadline for voting is September 10, and the top five businesses with the largest number of votes will be invited to compete in this year's final. Visit italianawards.co.uk for details of the event and to caste your vote.