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Restaurant review: The Mulroy, Edinburgh

A restaurant has to be extremely good to command £40 for three courses, or even a coy £39.50, as charged by the Mulroy, a relative newcomer to Edinburgh's prosperous West End.

At this price level you are getting close to the cost of eating, say, at The Kitchin, where the cooking is fantastic and you can rely on having an excellent meal that demonstrates considerable skill, an unswerving commitment to sensational ingredients, and layer upon layer of cooking effort.