Flowers and shrubs brighten up the patio during the summer, but what do we do with them as winter approaches?

Very low temperatures damage the plants by freezing the liquid in and between cells and if the temperature sinks gradually, the water between cells is the first to freeze. Many plants can survive this if the process happens slowly. But if there's a rapid freeze, the water inside and outside the cells freezes at the same time, and this causes much more serious damage.

Continental winters are better for plants: once winter's icy grip sets in, it stays that way, so plants know where they stand. But our winter weather is much tougher. Scotland's regular freeze-thaw pattern is mighty stressful as our plants have to keep adjusting to the changes.

Plants in containers find it harder to face these challenges. In the open ground, soil temperature is pretty constant and rarely freezes below the top few centimetres, but containers offer no such protection. Compost close to the edge constantly swings above and below zero, and this damages or kills roots. So, group containers together.

And all our rain soaks the plants, rots the crowns and may drown the roots. So keep an eye on moisture levels and be specially vigilant during a prolonged wet spell. The soil should be damp, but never wet. When wet is followed by a cold snap, surplus water freezes and expands, breaking roots and possibly cracking terracotta pots. Prevent this by using pot feet to lift pots off the ground to allow for better drainage. A few old slates or wooden boards beneath containers would also do.

Leave slow-growing potted perennials, like Portuguese laurel, to cope with horrendous winters. And some herbs, such as thyme hyssop and winter savoury, should come through outdoors. Even a borderline bay tree may survive a mild Scottish winter. I used to bring my bay into the greenhouse, but it had grown so large that last winter I left it in the patio. It survived, nestling against a south-facing wall and with the promise of a fleece duvet if necessary.

Clearly, bedding plants are destined for the compost heap. And half-hardy specimens, like the fuchsias Velvet Crush, with its deep burgundy flowers, and Fairy Blue may have to go the same way.

It's undoubtedly easier, if a lot more expensive, to treat fuchsias and other tender shrubs as annuals, but if you have greenhouse or conservatory space, you could try overwintering them. During the dormant season, fuchsias don't need light, so a frost-free shed should work.

The best temperature is 10C, but, in my experience, fuchsias can survive much lower temperatures than that. I cut out any dead vegetation and prop up growth with pieces of twig to prevent rotting foliage damaging the crowns. This also creates a micro-climate round the plant. The compost should be almost, but not completely, dry to encourage dormancy.

Periodically, give your fuchsias a wee drink to celebrate St Andrew's Day, Christmas Day, Burns Night and Whuppity Scoorie (March 1, when Lanark children create a hullabaloo in a churchyard to frighten off evil spirits). In April, re-pot the fuchsias, preferably using home-made compost, harden off and put outside once frosts are past. Who knows, you might end up with a few buckshee plants.

Pelargoniums (geraniums) are also tender so can't survive a Scottish winter. I always provide greenhouse space for my scented leaved pelargoniums and have never lost any, even during the severest of weathers. To prevent them flowering right through the winter, cut plants back to 15-20cm. They will then put on new leaf growth in the spring and flower earlier in the summer. Over winter keep the plants very dry, with just a splash of water on a mild day in January.