For at least four centuries, we've enjoyed several varieties of Narcissus in this country.

In the 17th century, Scots would have adorned the edge of parterres with wonderfully fragrant, low-growing Jonquils, N jonquilla. And since they produce several small-cupped blooms per stem, they're great in a pots.

I'm sure our predecessors would have approved of a delightful new specimen, Jonquilla Lieke. With white petals and green eyes, it produces up to 3 flowers per stem. Daffodils are now divided into 13 groups. Inevitably, they include some hideous doubles, wierd colours and plants unable to withstand our cold winters. But we have a fine choice of attractive toughies. Wordsworth's 'host of golden daffodils' is always stunning, but if you don't have space for this, there's no shortage of smaller, unusual blooms.

These are best placed on window ledges or low walls, where you'll enjoy the subtle shapes of the flowers. Make sure you select powerfully scented ones.

Bulbocodiums, the Hoop Petticoat types, are good for containers. N Bulbocodium Golden Bells provides us with large, funnel-shaped trumpets, and has neat, slender, dark green leaves. Growing to a around 14cm, twice as tall as Golden Bells, Rainbow offers white cupped flowers with a diameter no less than 10cm. With Spindeltop, you'll get slightly taller, but much narrower cupped flowers - more attractive, in my opinion.

Finally, from the seemingly countless varieties, look out for Peeping Tom. This 30cm daffodil, with long golden yellow trumpets, surrounded by dainty yellow reflexed petals, enjoys a good long flowering season and sits well in a container as well as the open ground.

Whatever you choose, daffodils should flower well for many years. As a general rule, they are tough specimens and can tolerate quite severe abuse. But not always. There's nothing more frustrating or disheartening than seeing a fine array of leaves, but no flowers. Luckily you can always avoid having these 'blind daffodils'.

This malady can occur when bulbs grow in poor, dry soil or become overcrowded. Overly tidy gardeners can cause problems by removing leaves prematurely, before the bulbs have managed to recharge themselves for the following year.

Like most plants, daffodils can't tolerate thin, dry soil. So to remedy the problem, you may need to lift the bulbs in the autumn and transfer them to decently moist and moderately fertile ground. You might have planted daffodils fairly close to smallish trees. But as the trees grew, they will have cast more shadow and sooked up every drop of moisture.

Trees also absorb nutrients, so, again, you may need to move the bulbs. Alternatively, compensate by regularly watering the plants till they die back in the early summer. You could also mulch the area in early spring to provide feed and improve moisture retention. If this is too much trouble, transplanting is the more realistic solution.

Daffodils spread readily over the years. As they become overcrowded, the bulbs compete for feed and moisture, so blooms start diminishing. Resolve the problem by lifting and dividing clumps. Either replant to enjoy a larger display or jettison or give away unneeded ones.

You can strengthen the plants by deadheading. They then put their energies into building up healthy bulbs rather than producing seed. Frankly, I have more pressing work to do in the garden just now, but if you have a small and special collection, this could be worth considering.

It takes 6-8 weeks for leaves to die back, and they do look unsightly. If you are driven to despair, plant in a rough area, where it really doesn't matter or use containers which you can move elsewhere after flowering. But, undoubtedly, cutting back untidy foliage is the commonest mistake. Knotting - gathering leaves together and tying a knot with them - is harmful. These small, less untidy clumps don't photosynthesise properly, so can't recharge the bulbs.

Growing pains

We have two 70 year old rambling rose bushes. They grow and bloom prolifically each year. They form a crown over an arched pergola. The pergola is coming apart and the rose branches are so intertwined that I'll have to cut the branches far back to be able to remove the crumbling wooden pergola and replace it with a lower level fence on which the roses will bloom again - we hope. How far back can I safely cut the roses from the surface of the soil and when would be the best time? Bob McIntyre.

Ramblers can become impenetrable when left to their own devices. Ramblers should be able to cope with a complete cutback, but if you can save 2 or 3 new stems, you'll get some flowering next year. Otherwise, you'll have to wait till the second year. Cut out very old stems and prune new stems to 30-40cm above ground level. Do this after flowering.

Plant of the week

Pulsatilla vulgaris var. rubra, Pasqueflower makes a clump of finely divided leaves with wonderful, large, nodding, bell-shaped, velvety, red flowers followed by attractive, feathery seed heads. Does well in a pot where it's easy to protect from winter wet.