Nestled in a large meadow half-encircled by the River North Esk near Dalkeith, Melville Castle wears its history well.

The modern world fades as a mile-long singletrack road takes you away from the busy A7, past mature rhododendrons and overhanging chestnut trees, to the three-storey, 30-room Gothic mansion; its castellated features an 18th-century affectation rather than a defensive necessity.

Our room was on the second floor, up a wide staircase that was grand without being ostentatious, past walls adorned with oil paintings - a few famous prints in those chipped gilded frames - to a room with a four-poster bed and a view over the secluded estate and nearby stables. Like much of the hotel, our room was elegant without being over the top, its character worn and comfortable, rather than weary or dowdy.

We'd arrived mid-afternoon after the kitchen had closed so we headed to Dalkeith for lunch, and discovered the Cavaliere on High Street. It's a cracking traditional Italian restaurant where the pizza reminded us of Rome and where a steady stream of families came through the door to ogle at the ice-cream counter or natter over huge bowls of pasta.

We meandered back to Melville Castle then took a little run round the estate - which dates back to the 12th century - past the remains of an old ruined bridge, covered in ivy and centuries old, then past a disused aerial zip wire and climbing wall hidden in the trees, a clue to the hotel's more recent life as a venue for corporate hospitality.

Dinner was a range of inviting options - red meat, fowl and fish were all there, presented in inventive, thoughtful ways. After a dram in the library bar, we went downstairs to the Brasserie restaurant. As we moulded into the cushioned bench of the castle's intimate cellar eaterie, the stresses of life eased away while the staff brought us our food - a rare treat. We plumped for a butternut squash salad with walnut and mushroom risotto, so easy to get wrong but served just right. Pudding had to be the rich sticky, sickly sweet toffee pudding.

For two weary parents needing a quick break from a hectic city life, this quiet retreat and warm welcome were just what we needed. It was a perfect 24 hours, where we found that holiest of parental grails - one whole night of uninterrupted sleep.

Colin Campbell was a guest of Melville Castle, Gilmerton Road, Edinburgh (melvillecastle.com, 0131 654 0088). B&B starts at £99.