You could be forgiven for experiencing a sense of geographical displacement on arrival in Buenos Aires.

Stand on one of the Argentine capital's wide boulevards and you could easily mark out your surroundings as distinctly European: Paris, possibly? Madrid, maybe? Yet scratch even fleetingly below the surface and this home to 2.9 million people is passionately, vibrantly Latin America.

It is also a city with considerable charm, an edgy disposition and bags of attitude. Not, for nothing, do Portenos (residents of BA) have a penchant for the psychiatrist's couch, a liking for the plastic surgeon's scalpel and, according to some, egos that are said to have residents of other cities in the region scuttling away with inferiority issues.

But having visited this most interesting and often quirky of capital cities twice, my hunch is that much of this is a reflection of the country's turbulent past as it is about levels of arrogance.

There's no better example of Argentine style and attitude than the city's Recoleta Cemetery. Now, stick with me. I know the thought of a morning passing the resting places of the great and good may seem like no incentive whatsoever to take the 14-hour flight, but this is one of BA's highlights.

It's a Hampton Court-style maze of opulence. If the wealthy departed could enter a game show and win the most ornate, extravagant, over-the-top tomb in which to outdo the "neighbours" then Recoleta would be the result.

It's a fair bet most visitors are here to locate the final resting place of Eva Peron, the country's former first lady. A half-century after her death at the age of 33, she is still regarded by some as saint and saviour and by others as a fascist. Whichever your viewpoint, Evita is a much an enduring symbol of Argentina as the tango, soccer, and those legendary steaks.

The city is noted for its coffee houses and they assume the same role as social nucleus as our own pubs. But many of these have been shaped, scarred and influenced by Argentina's rich literary heritage as well as less savoury times typified by social unrest, financial ruin and military oppression

The most famous is Cafe Tortoni a 50-year-old temple to relaxation BA-style with waiters in bow tie and tails, marbled floors and mahogany panelled walls, all of which is enough to make you dread the sight of another Starbucks.

A short walk away is the Plaza de Mayo, dominated on one side by the Casa Rosada from whose balcony Evita addressed the adoring masses.

This is also a part of the city where you are reminded of the country's troubled past. Following a military coup in 1976, a brutal dictatorship was installed in which mass murder and torture where the order of the day. Over the next seven years an estimated 30,000 people – mostly but not exclusively Argentineans – were made to "disappear". "The Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo" march on the square, peacefully and with great dignity, weekly to this day.

Portenos have a certain attitude of aloofness but delve beneath the surface and you will, on the whole, find them a people with a sense of style, a love of life and a take on events that has obviously shaped their journey through turbulent times.

One of the great pleasures of Buenos Aires can be had exploring its leafy neighbourhoods or stopping off for a cafe con leche (a latte with a kick) or to watch an impromptu pavement-side display of the hypnotic, passionate tango.

The Argentine zest for life is observed to no greater, or impressive, extent than in its love of the beautiful game. The world famous Boca Juniors and River Plate represent the local equivalent of Celtic and Rangers. The rivalry is legendary and, even if you're not a football fan, if you're in town when one of these giants is playing at home, then the sheer spectacle on display really is worth experiencing.

As the country enjoys a period of economic stability, Buenos Aires has seen the arrival of sophisticated bars and fine dining to rival anything London, Paris or New York has to offer. Head for the rejuvenated dockside area of Puerto Madero, or make for the trendy Palermo district for a confection of tree-lined streets, artists and intellectuals, and some seriously good food. And, yes, if you're a carnivore then that Argentine beef is every bit as good as you've been told.

Messrs Rice and Lloyd Webber asked when penning Evita: "What's new, Buenos Aires?" The answer these days is quite a lot. A city that wears its heart on its sleeve, locals with considerable style, and a gateway to a country that surprises at every turn. You may well find yourself completely captivated by this intoxicating capital.

Getting there

Veloso Tours (veloso.com; 020 8762 0616) offers an eight-day/six-night trip to Buenos Aires, costing from £1780 per person, based on two people travelling. The price includes non-stop flights with British Airways, transfers, accommodation in the four-star Loi Suites Recoleta and a full-day sightseeing tour. The company also offers tailor-made tours of Argentina. Also try Pettitts (pettitts.co.uk) or Journey Latin America (journeylatinamerica.co.uk).