I FIRST visited the Hebrides more than 25 years ago on a week-long midwinter trip to South Uist, most memorable for the 100mph gales blowing sheep past the windows of our rented cottage.

If we ventured outdoors, we were hurled to the ground by violent gusts. This was a disappointment, not least because the journey to and from the south coast of England took two days each way. This is probably why many years passed before my next visit, to Islay and Jura this time, in the company of my future wife.

From the summit of Beinn Shiantaidh - one of the Paps of Jura - we glimpsed Jura's wild northwest coast through fleeting breaks in the fast-moving cloud. A seed was sown. We vowed to return to walk the west coast of Jura the following year, which we duly did, and we have returned several times most years since.

From this spectacular coastline the shores and mountains of Mull, Scarba, the Garvellachs, Colonsay and Islay beckoned. From those islands in turn we looked across to Skye, the Small Isles, the Outer Hebrides and beyond, until, on St Kilda, the only way to look was back at where

we'd come from.

In the nine years since that first trip we've covered many miles on foot across the Hebrides,

often revisiting favourite places many times. My new guidebook, The Hebrides, was born out of a near-obsessive preoccupation with this island domain and it is aimed at adventurous and resourceful walkers who are willing to go the extra mile for something special.

Some of the finest walking in the British Isles can be found here amid the sublime, elemental beauty of the Hebridean hills and shores. In the islands' rugged hinterlands, scree-strewn mountain ridges rise above austere moorlands jewelled with peat-dark lochans, while whisky-hued burns tumble through mighty glens to the sea. Along the wild Hebridean shores, towering cliffs and storm-battered headlands give way to silver shell-sand beaches and iridescent blue-green waters.

Against this magnificent backdrop the mercurial Hebridean weather can turn so quickly that at times it's like watching speeded-up film from a time-lapse camera. The sea-reflected Hebridean light is itself a thing of wonder, especially in the wake of stormy weather when sunshine sets the rain-washed air aglow: the play of light on hill and glen animates the landscape, and sun-silvered clouds sail swiftly across the vast Atlantic skies.

From the jagged mountain ridges of the Skye and Rum Cuillin, the majestic glens and summits of Mull and Harris, to the wild shores of Jura and Islay, the vertiginous sea cliffs of St Kilda and the dune-backed bays and machair pastures of the Uists, these islands provide a wealth of possibilities - and no shortage of challenges. The terrain is often rough, rugged and pathless and a degree of navigational competence is essential. The facilities and infrastructure walkers may rely on elsewhere, such as waymarked paths and public transport, are few and far between, so walking here requires a certain amount of self-reliance. This of course only adds to the rewarding nature of walking in the Hebrides for those who like a challenge.

The routes included in my book are aimed at experienced walkers with a good degree of fitness.

The Hebridean weather brings its own challenges. Storms battering in off the Atlantic, driving

horizontal rain and buffeting winds can make coast and hillwalking ill-advised at times, while dense cloud, persistent rain and poor visibility can put a literal dampener on the experience. However, island weather is changeable, which usually provides some variety over the course of a few days.

Such unpredictability is best viewed as stimulating, but you should be prepared for every eventuality when planning walks. High winds and persistent rain are not uncommon. But when the sun shines - as, contrary to popular myth, it frequently does in the Hebrides - the islands really an an earthly paradise.

Walk: Garbh Eileach, The Garvellachs

Start/Finish: Landing jetty at NM 669 117

Distance: 5.75km (3½ miles)

Total ascent: 256m (840ft)

Time: 2-2½hrs

Terrain: Grassy, tussocky and pathless moorland; high cliffs and rugged, rocky coastline; some dwarf birch woodland

Maps: OS Explorer 359, OS Landranger 55

The Garvellachs (An Garbh Eileaichan in Gaelic), the "rough islands" or "Isles of the Sea" are a chain of four small islands lying north of the Isle of Jura and southeast of Mull, about 6.5km west of the Isle of Luing, at the entrance to the Firth of Lorn. Eileach an Naoimh (meaning "Isle of the Saints") is home to the ruins of an ancient Celtic monastery and the best-preserved example of a monastic "beehive cell" in Scotland. The site is in the care of Historic Scotland.

Other than arriving in your own boat or kayak, the only way to reach the Garvellachs is to charter

a water taxi. Farsain Cruises operates from Croabh Haven Marina on the Argyll coast; contact

Duncan Philips on 07880 714165. The wonderful journey itself is enough to justify the expense. It

is worth camping overnight on Garbh Eileach if you possibly can to allow time to explore. Although this will make a charter more expensive you could also include a visit to Eileach an Naiomh.

The best walking on the Garvellachs is to be had on Garbh Eileach - the largest of these small

islands, at a mere 2km long and 1km wide. Along the north coast steep cliffs rise almost vertically

from the sea, cleft by the Bealach an Tarabairt, while the ground slopes down to the low-lying

southern shores as if the whole island is on a tilt, which in fact it is - the result of glacio-isostatic uplift after the ice cap retreated during the last glacial period. A small herd of red deer live on the island: keep your distance and give them space and time to get away from you.

From the jetty walk around to the estate bothy (which is private and locked; there are good spots to pitch a tent in the immediate environs, although if the bothy is occupied it is best to ask before

doing so). From the right-hand side of the bothy head north-northwest across the island, following a vague path through the small glen, making for the cleft of Bealach an Tarabairt.

Bear left to stay above the scrubby woodland nestled in the middle of the glen, soon gaining the bealach, which gives access to the rocky northern coast. It is worth exploring the coastline here, not least for the fine views north to the Isle of Mull. Returning to the bealach, climb northeastwards onto the high ground and continue along the cliff tops. The cliffs are steep and airy in places, so proceed with care and stay back from the edge.

The terrain rises to a high point of 110m near the island's northeastern end, where dwarf birch woodland thrives.

From here there are fine views east to Dùn Chonnuill, the smallest of the island chain. It is

possible to descend the wooded slopes to Garbh Eileach's easternmost point, but do so with caution as the ground is steep and loose in places. Bear south then southwest to descend more gradual slopes and arrive on the south coast. Continue along the rugged south shore, passing in front of the bothy again and continuing as far as the island's western end. After a short way the north coast is not navigable, so the high ground must be regained to continue back to the Bealach an Tarabairt to complete a circuit of Garbh Eileach.

Extracted from The Hebrides: 50 Walking And Backpacking Routes by Peter Edwards, published by Cicerone Press, £18.95 Cicerone are offering readers the chance to buy The Hebrides at a special discounted rate. All titles covering the Hebridean islands will have 25% off until 26th April at www.cicerone.co.uk

Photographs by Peter Edwards