Mango

373 Sauchiehall Street

Glasgow

07908 251200

WHEN exactly the Cuban chef arrived at our table I can't rightly say, given we were heavily distracted by the very-loud, very-fast non-stop ay-caramba music. This not only set the cocktail-sipping folks perched on stools at the window and bar absently-mindedly and hilariously seat-dancing but had Steve and I gripping the table sides lest - shock-horror - we subconsciously join in.

We were also heavily distracted by the unusual array of South American street food sprawled suggestively before us, South America being the new thing in and around Glasgow's Sauchiehall Street. Fried chunks of pale yuca, crisp and crunchy, mild and salty; little soft, sweet empanadas stuffed with prawn and spice; cheeky pao de quejio balls of dough just-baked with melted cheese inside. And also bunuela de yuca fritters with a slightly goofy, gloopy taste to the cassava flour. They came with a side bowl of such finely diced and freshly seasoned good stuff that Steve, a lifelong vegetarian, had polished off spoonfuls of it before the peso dropped and we realised it was mince. Like from a cow. Ay caramba.

I think I was actually tasting the salad, which contained pinto beans, when I look up and the chef is standing right there. Beside me. With the American waitress smiling in the style of someone thinking: ask him the dumb questions.

What had brought him out was the coxinho de queijo or to be more precise my suggestion earlier that it and other dishes were so uniformly and perfectly shaped that...not to point too fine a point on it...were they really freshly made on the premises?

I can't recount the whole conversation because I couldn't hear much of it but half way through I tear a light, airy chicken coxinho in half to indicate it just looks just, umm, too perfect.

Amazingly, this does not end up with the chef inviting me outside, as he probably should have, but into his kitchen to see the doughs he makes himself and touch the imported moulds that he uses to give the coxinha their funny little Botticelli shapes and the empanada its perfect half moon.

During the course of this friendly exchange, and despite already having ordered cod in coconut sauce and palm oil with red peppers, I also order frijolada Colombiana on the grounds that in this column we're all about backing chefs who do things the proper way. Which is also usually the hard way.

While the cod was pleasant enough and mildly flavoured the stew of strips of beef, spiced sausage, pinto beans with sliced fried plantain, avocado strips and rice isn't my thing. Nor does it have the visuals of the starters.

On those visuals, folks, a word about the decor in here which is occasionally so bright that it feels like all the brash colours in the world have ganged up to punch you square in the face when you walk in. With the music standing by to then dance on your head.

As for the bar-cum-diner name? Mango? We did wonder if the brain-storming session to come up with it extended any further than: Let's call it mango? Uh-OK. And that exterior look? Perhaps something similar as it consists of nothing more than hanging a tatty, and far-too-small plastic banner with a parrot on it from an upstairs window.

It is so off-putting that Steve and I initially veer away and wander off down Sauchiehall Street on this nice June evening to try to find somewhere more inviting.

We briefly consider a new Brazilian place - this time serving grilled meat. We stop at a Belgian chip shop, yes, in Glasgow, and try some not hugely exciting pommes frites, before wandering back to give Mango a whirl.

It's a bar with street food really. Not bad and reasonably different street food handmade by a Cuban chef. Can't knock that. Even if it's not the most relaxing place in town.

Menu: Occasionally unusual South American street food including coxinhos, yuca frita and buneulo de yuca. A smattering of Colombian and Mexican mains. 4/5

Atmosphere: Full blast Latin music amid an occasionally very loud and bar-style decor does not make for a quiet meal but you'll know if you like that sort of thing. 3/5

Service: International serving staff are very friendly. Eventually, they have to ask the chef to come out and answer the questions from Mr Awkward. 4/5

Price: Small dishes labelled tapas at £3.95, mains from £10 to £13. Reasonable enough. 3/5

Food: The Cuban chef told us he makes everything from scratch and although the flavours are pretty muted the snacky dishes are different and worth a try. 6/10

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