Local food goes the distance

Fast forward a few decades, through advances in shipping and refrigeration, coupled with the industrialisation of agriculture and the arrival of the supermarket, and our seasons are flatlined.  Looking at the fruit and vegetables in supermarkets we would barely know seasons exist. The recent milk protests highlight the knock-on effects of the immense buying power of the supermarkets – although people (and cow) power can still make a difference.

Many consumers are now seeking out a more local and sustainable source for their groceries. In Glasgow, Reuben Chesters runs Locavore, a social enterprise dedicated to providing and promoting local food and sustainable production. He believes the current situation needs to be changed.

He explains: “The fundamental problem is that our food system is run by a small number of very large organisations who control what we eat as well as what we want to eat.”

Locavore comprises a food store in the city’s southside, gardens for growing fruit and vegetables, a veg delivery scheme and various projects, workshops and courses aimed at developing a sustainable food system. For Chesters, our food chain is of fundamental importance. “The food that we eat is part of such a big holistic issue. It’s about creating a better food system that is better for the environment, better for our community and better for our health. The economic aspect is really important. It’s about putting money into things that are a solution to the problems not a part of them.”

A recent, and controversial rearing of a couple of pigs at Locavore’s Urban Croft garden in Glasgow’s Queen’s Park was to not only provide meat for the shop but also highlight meat consumption and production methods.

While there are no plans for more pigs in the park, Locavore recently purchased 101 chickens via Crowdfunder for their 2.5-acre Neilston garden to produce eggs. “It’s about filling in the gaps in our supply. We couldn’t find any good, organic eggs any nearer than Dundee so we worked on producing our own. We’d love to produce our own milk, but that’s a whole different proposition.”

While the big supermarkets rarely give much more than lip service to local producers, one international giant works hard to promote local food and drink.

Upmarket American organic specialist Whole Foods Market has more than 400 stores across the US, Canada and the UK, it employs some 60,000 people and net profit for 2014 was $580million. Yet the store has shown dedication to local sourcing and community projects since it opened in Glasgow in 2011.

Manager of the Giffnock store, Darren Campbell, says the number of Scottish products is in the hundreds. “We are given a lot of freedom to seek out new producers and products. If we see a product we like we, our regional purchasing team will see if it can fit in the store. We have stringent criteria for ingredients and will often work with producers to see if their products can be adapted to fit our requirements.”

As well as recycling, charitable events, donating the bag tax and quarterly “love local” food festivals, the company also gives to food banks. “We work closely with food distributors to ensure that even our most esoteric items are used. It’s important to us to ensure that whatever comes into our store is used by people and not wasted.”Supermarkets have tempted consumers away from the high street where once our parents and grandparents shopped. The convenience of having everything under one roof – and a free parking space – has meant fewer traditional traders.

One man keen to revive the old high street experience is Richard Home whose food delivery service launched this summer in Glasgow.

Fresh Local Foods’ website is a virtual stroll down the high street of old. Selecting “fishmonger”, “greengrocer” or “butcher” displays the produce of a real shop in the area. Fresh Local Foods then deliver them to your door.

Homes says: “People just don’t have the time anymore. In the good old days you’d take a walk down the high street, popping in each shop, but now they are so spread out it’s impossible.” For Home it is not just about supporting local businesses, it is also about buying top-quality produce: “We wanted the best of the best. Our butcher, S Collins of Muirhead, won Scottish butcher of the year. Our deli, Billlingtons of Lenzie, won best Scottish delicatessen. For our baker, I asked chefs for a recommendation and Bavarian Bakehouse in Kirkintilloch was top of the list. Cheese is from IJ Mellis and groceries from Andersons in Glasgow’s West End, and our fish comes from The Fish People on the southside.

“Prices might be higher but people buy into that for the
quality and variety on offer as well as a chance to support the local high street.”

Serving up some fresh ideas

Farmers’ markets

Most major cities in Scotland and a growing number of towns and other venues hold farmers’ markets at which local farmers and producers, many without any other outlet for their sales, set up stall. Buy meat, fruit and vegetables, baked goods and even household items from small-scale producers.

Farm shops

The number of farmers setting up shops on site is an indication of the hard times they face but also the growing demand from consumers to buy local, seasonal food. Around Glasgow, Ardardan Estate near Helensburgh sells homebred Highland beef and lamb. Edenmill Farm near Blanefield has an in-house butchery and smokery for beef, pork, lamb and game – all their own or sourced from within 50 miles. Serving Edinburgh, Craigie’s Farm Deli and Café is a popular for homegrown and local produce including Buffalo meat from Fife.

Social enterprises

For the full ethical, sustainable, local and seasonal package, seek out one of the not-for-profit organisations. Locavore serves  Glasgow’ while, in Edinburgh’s Bruntsfield Dig-In is a community greengrocer and deli that opened last year when locals decided to act after a supermarket chain took over an old Peckham’s site.

Dining out

Cafés, bars and restaurants are doing much to encourage seasonal demand. In Glasgow, Siempre Bicycle Café, Martha’s, McCune Smith Café and An Clachan are all dishing out tasty locally sourced foods that have an eye on health and wellbeing too. Further up the dining chain, The Gannet is doing imaginative things with all that is Scottish while The Ubiquitous Chip had provenance on its menu before most diners knew what it was. In Edinburgh, Earthy has three shops selling local produce with eat-in options at its Causewayside and Cannonmills venues. Or try Edinburgh Larder Café and its sister Bistro for dedicated local dishes. The Gardener’s Cottage has been impressing diners with some of the produce coming from its own market garden.