When asked last autumn who his biggest competitor was, Steve Lewis, the head of Majestic Wines, had no hesitation. It was Naked Wines – the online retailer set up by the South African entrepreneur and one time ‘ideas man’ to Richard Branson, Rowan Gormley in 2008.

In February Lewis stepped down after a disappointing Christmas, and by April Majestic had gobbled up its rival for £70 million and appointed Gormley as boss. Over the years the 200-strong chain with 14 stores in Scotland may have lost some of its sparkle. Having championed quirky, artisan producers it seems to have drifted towards brands and special offers.

This is something the soft-spoken Gormley concedes up to a point. “The magic’s still there, but it’s a bit of a light’s under a bushel. I would like the portfolio to get some of the sizzle and excitement back into it.” He says the message from the shop-floor is: “We want to get back to recommending the wines we love, and not the wines suppliers have given us a discount.” The staff, whose passion matters as it does in every good independent or Oddbins, would also like more autonomy.

Majestic is strong in areas like southern France, South Africa and off-beat corners of Spain such as Galicia, but the range can be repetitive. “Do you really need 36 New Zealand sauvignons?” I ask. “No, we don’t,” he laughs. “There’s some definite reconstruction to be done, but the spirit is alive.”

Referring to younger consumers under 35, he says: “I think we need to be big in craft beer because I think it’s the new ‘wine’ for that generation.”

My local Majestic is getting there with its Scottish range from Brewdog, Innis & Gunn and the like, but it’s a bit predictable. Maybe more autonomy’s the answer?

Most wines have a lower price if you buy more than one bottle, though not in Scotland where buy-two-get-three deals are banned lest we be tempted to drink more than we should. Of course it makes no sense at Majestic where you have to buy at least six bottles anyway, though this rule may be relaxed in future.

Gormley is keen to seduce us back to elegant, lightly-oaked chardonnay and if that means dumping Kiwi sauvignon I’m right behind him. I am also impressed with what I have tried so far of the chain’s new ‘Definition’ own-label range.

Definition Côtes du Rhône 2014 £8.99 Majestic (15%)

A voluptuous blend of plum fruit, liquorice and dried herbs that wears its strength and body beautifully.

Definition Provence Rose 2014 £9.74 Majestic (13%)

A classic, bone dry rose with a slight salty edge and delicate fruit, though with a little bit of flesh in the middle.

Dócil Vinho Verde 2014 £11.99 Raeburn Fine Wines (13%)

A floral, succulent vinho verde that’s both lively and elegant from Dirk Niepoort, one of Portugal’s star winemakers.