THE sky is grey and getting darker. From the top of the tower at Melrose Abbey we can see brooding rain clouds roiling towards us from the east. To the south, the magical Eildon Hills cling on to the last of the fast fading light.

We were here in the pretty and lively Borders town of Melrose for some R&R at Fauhope guest house, and a spot shopping along the town's picture-postcard high street.

I used to know Melrose, having come here as a boy on visits to my grandparents. In those days I never paid much attention to Melrose’s high street, though I’m not convinced it warranted it back then. There has, speaking to the folk here, been a tremendous improvement in the town's fortunes during the past 10 or so years, and the new Borders railway, with Tweedbank station a couple of miles away, will only add to its prosperity.

Melrose boasts the kind of high street every town should have. Independent butchers, delis and craft shops; a greengrocer’s and a bakery; a book shop and a classy booze store. Bars, hotels, cafes and bistros. The only chain here is a Boots, its generic sameness at odds with the rest of the town. The chalkboards and handwritten labels contain phrases such as "locally sourced" and "locally made". The greengrocer’s has a bucket of carrots for you to feed the horses.

Rediscovering the town stirs a mishmash of memories. Playing tig in the abbey grounds. Walks along the Tweed, the long curl of the lines as fly fishermen angled for the rising salmon. Watching the famous Melrose Sevens and the clash of giants, Craig Chalmers and Doddie Weir among them. Stomps up the Eildon hills, and scree-runs down them. Snowmen and igloos in some farmer’s field. Tales of Bruce and Thomas the Rhymer, the Reivers and the Romans.

Laden with purchases and a fair few quid lighter (craft ain’t cheap, and rightly so) we make for the famous abbey, and head straight for the tower and its commanding views. Founded by David I in 1136, the abbey ruins are remarkable and beautiful. Strong geometric architecture juts against ragged stonework, the muted winter light on the carvings in contrast to the life of the nearby high street.

After descending the tower's spiral staircase, we venture through an archway and into the cemetery, where gravestones are scattered and haphazard, some well preserved, others fading.

Then we pass through a gate to where a solitary stone marks the resting point of Robert the Bruce’s heart. Or so they say. Historic Scotland’s interpretation panel has its doubts, even though an encased and embalmed heart was exhumed from the spot and subsequently analysed some 20 years ago.

And as we walk to the wee museum, I mind the legend my father told me, of Bruce’s heart being flung into battle by his Crusading disciple Sir James Douglas, who cried: “Lead on, brave heart, I'll follow thee.” According to the story, the heart was found among the slain knights the next day and brought back from Moorish Spain to be interred at Melrose Abbey. Bruce himself had ordered it rebuilt in 1326, four years after England’s King Edward II had sacked it.

Many of the museum's relics predate Bruce, of course. There are Roman fragments and tiles – the major fort of Trimontium was only a couple of miles away – as well as objects from the abbey's 1000-year history of the abbey helped tell the area’s long history.

With the winter light fading fast and the echoes of a nearby rugby game disturbing the abbey's eerie silence, we make our way to our home for the night, to the wonderful Fauhope House in Gattonside on the other side of the Tweed.

Parking outside this large home, we are affectionately greeted by our host Sheila Robson. The place feels both familial and familiar, and we are soon gently ushered into a glorious living room as Sheila rushes off to fetch afternoon tea. We are encourage – no, ordered – to help ourselves to sherry from the table next to a large, crackling wood fire.

Built in 1897, Fauhope has five double guest bedrooms, though it could easily accommodate more. The rooms are busy but thoughtfully decorated, and our disarmingly friendly host manages to be both always on hand yet respectfully distant.

Hosting is important to Sheila and her husband Ian, as are art and culture, the land, life and good living. Books on Hockney, Blake and Bacon, eclectic paintings and other artworks on all the walls, mantle-shelves and various cabinets and bureaux.

We are led up a staircase whose bannisters are woven with greenery, to a large turret room offering views over Fauhope’s well-tended gardens to Melrose and the Eildon Hills beyond.

Hopes of a walk before dinner are washed away when the rain starts battering against the window. In truth, we are happy where we are: a bedroom that is comfortable yet opulent, homely and lived-in, yet with no sign of wear nor lack of care. A carafe of sherry next to mix-matched glasses speaks volumes about the generous welcome afforded to guests here.

But with appetites growling, we make for the nearby Chapters bistro, run by husband and wife team Bea and Roger McKie, who took over this classy wee restaurant – think rustic chic – that, like so much of Melrose life, sources its produce locally. Whether it is the beer, fish or tatties, all the food here has a clear provenance. Not so local is the wine, curated by oenophiles Roger and Bea who wear their passion for wine on their wine list.

Though meat (from local farms) features heavily at Chapters, they are easily able to cater for vegetarians and vegans, with decent options including vegetable stew, mushroom risotto, cheese soufflé, gnocchi and roasted tomato pesto. The highlight, however, is pudding, with the chocolate tart one of the best I’ve had for a long, long while.

Frankly, the following morning we don’t want to leave, and nor are we made to feel we have to. There is no urgency to clean our room, nor see us away. Sadly though, the real world calls, and after a hearty and thoughtful breakfast – vegetarian sausages making a welcome and unrequested appearance – we maee our way home, relaxed and revived and promising to return.

Fauhope calls itself a boutique B&B, which, although accurate doesn’t do the place justice – a glance through the visitor book and the words “wonderful”, “lovely” “beautiful” and “thank you” appear again and again. As do a fair few of the same names. For us, it's been a bit like staying at a posh auntie’s.

Colin Campbell was a guest of Fauhope Country House www.fauhopehouse.com and Chapters Bistro www.chapters-bistro.co.uk/

Five things to do in and around Melrose:

Abbotsford House

A couple of miles out from Melrose is the majestic home of Sir Walter Scott, the great Scottish novelist. The house itself dates from the early 19th century when Scott was in his ascendancy following the publication of his Waverley books. A new visitor centre tells the life and story of Scott, while the grounds themselves offer beautiful riverside and woodland walks.

http://www.scottsabbotsford.com/

Traquair House

Another beautiful stately home … but this one has a brewery. Traquair House, out towards Peebles, is itself worth a visit, but the beer they make is superb – (their 7.2% House Ale is outstanding). The house was used as a hunting lodge for Scottish royalty, and this year they’ll be marking the 500th anniversary of a visit by Mary, Queen of Scots. Reopens March.

www.traquair.co.uk

Walk the Eildon Hills

One of the Borders’ best known landmarks, these three wee hills are delicate, rounded and give stunning views of the Borders. Munros they’re not, but they still make for a cracking afternoon’s walk. Set out from Melrose centre following the St Cuthbert’s Way for a couple of kilometres.

Melrose Abbey and Gardens

Brooding, atmospheric and rich in history, Melrose Abbey is a must. Also take a look in at the nearby Harmony and Priorwood gardens run by the National Trust for Scotland.

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk www.nts.org.uk

Get on your bike

If ruined abbeys and stately homes aren’t your thing (even ones with a brewery?!), then perhaps you should have a go at mountain biking. Both Glentress and Innerleithen circuits are close by, with the latter for more experienced riders. Bike hire available at Glentress or Innerleithen village.

www.7stanesmountainbiking.com