MATCHING wine to a dish dominated by tomatoes is not quite as easy as you’d think. You have to bear in mind the notable acidity of the fruit and try to echo that in the wine. A nice Sauvignon Blanc would be a good place to start, so you could pick a Sancerre, or a Touraine for a cheaper alternative from the Loire. Or from the New World, you could choose an example from Marlborough, Elim (a very cool region in South Africa) or the Leyda Valley in Chile.
This week’s curve ball is being thrown from the Dolomites, where you’ll find the excellent Vette di San Leonardo Sauvignon Blanc Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT 2013 (Inverarity One to One, £12.99). You don’t expect to find excellent Sauvignon Blancs in Italy, but this one is world class. Sheltered by the peaks that give the wine its name, the vines enjoy a particular microclimate which is quite unique to the area. Following the harvest in September, the wine is kept for five months on the lees and undergoes regular batonnage (which is the process of stirring the wine with a big stick) adding depth and complexity to the glass. I really can’t recommend this one enough, as an aperitif and with fish, chicken fricassee, pork and soft cheeses (especially brie) as well as Shirley’s delicious tomato dish.
Now, if you’d rather have a red (and let’s be honest, the black pudding element in the dish is calling out for a good robust red), you’re best sticking with Italy. The Italians are experts at making their wines to go with the local grub, and as you can imagine, the local grub often contains tomatoes. So, the reds tend to be quite astringent to cope with the daily battle of matching all the beautiful sauces from recipes that have been handed down over generations.
You could try a tangy Barbera or a Dolcetto from Piedmont, an Aglianico from the South or even a classic Chianti.
Aglianico del Vulture Cantina di Venosa 2012 (Majestic, £8.99). These vines grow on the slopes of an extinct volcano, Mount Vulture which adds more of the essential minerality into the wine. This is a great wee wine, especially considering the price-tag.
Dogajolo Carpineto 2014 (Majestic, £9.99). This is Chianti with a twist, and the twist is Cabernet Sauvignon. Adding the international grape to the local Sangiovese creates something wonderful, and you simply have to try a bottle this weekend with tomatoes stuffed with black pudding. Go on, it will change your life.
Pete Stewart is Glasgow director of Inverarity One to One 185a Bath Street, Glasgow inverarity121.com
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