Shirley Spear cooks Roast Duck with Marmalade & Port Wine Sauce

There are many other theories behind the origins of the preserve of British breakfasts, but such is my determination to keep its invention in Scotland, I was very pleased when the publishers, Birlinn Ltd, agreed to accept my idea to add to their mini food bible series of books, by writing the Marmalade Bible. I am very proud to say that this will be launched next week in Edinburgh.

This special wee book contains the story of marmalade and some interesting anecdotal information. The recipe section is made up of recipes for making marmalade, together with lots of hints and tips behind perfecting the process. Further recipes include marmalade in a variety of ways, from home bakes to lunch or dinner-time treats.

Last year, I had the honour of being invited to help judge the World’s Marmalade Awards, held at Dalemain, near Penrith in Cumbria. This beautiful Georgian mansion belongs to Jane Hasell-McCosh and her husband. It is an ancient family home containing many historic artefacts, as well as a library of original cookery books from centuries past.

In 2005, Jane launched the Marmalade Awards and Festival, little realising how popular and significant this event would grow to become. Last week, the 2017 Awards were launched at Westminster, alongside the launch of the brand new Australian Awards. Marmalade, like the Scottish diaspora, has moved on and down-under.

Judging the Awards happens in February each year and the actual Festival will take place on March 18 and 19 in 2017. The whole community comes together to celebrate what has become an amazing fund-raising focus for charity. There are hundreds of entrants. When I arrived at Dalemain, I could not believe how many jars of marmalade were laid out in room after room. All shapes and sizes of jars and decorative tops were ranked row upon row, covering every available surface. My initial reaction was one of astonishment. How on earth were we to taste all of them conclusively? But the organisation behind this event is quite amazing too. Every jar is systematically tried and tasted, judged and marked on colour, consistency, appearance, taste and flavour. There are several categories to enter the awards, which will all be announced shortly on the website. These range from homemade to professional, with a category for artisan producers plus one for those who make marmalade for their B&Bs and hotels. If you are proud of your marmalade, you should enter.

The recipe for roast duck with marmalade and port wine sauce, would have used wild duck in days gone by in Scotland. I first noticed the recipe in my Taste of Scotland book, by Theodora FitzGibbon. In words and fascinating pictures of old Scotland, this book was my first introduction to the wealth of Scotland’s culinary heritage. My dad gave it to me for my 18th birthday, inscribing it with the words: “Knowing your propensity for this sort of thing!” He knew me well. I still use this book for reference and inspiration frequently. It contains a fascinating collection of original photographs of historic life in Scotland.

I love wild mallard duck as an ingredient, but this recipe uses what is termed a "domestic" duck, available from the meat counter in most good food shops. You can buy just the crown of the bird, but I recommend choosing the whole bird and if you can have the giblets included, for help towards making the sauce.

Duck is not the meatiest of birds, but a large whole one will feed up to four adults. Wild ducks are usually prepared per person. The legs are not particularly meaty, although chefs like to slow-cook these to serve alongside the duck breasts, which are seared very quickly in a hot pan, before leaving to rest in a warm place and then slicing. The carcass could then be used to make the base stock for the sauce of course and if you are lucky to have the giblets, a giblet stock can be prepared too and contribute towards an excellent gravy. Keep your Scottish ancestry in mind while you tackle this dish.

Roast duck with marmalade and port wine sauce

(Serves up to 4)

1 whole, oven-ready duck with giblets if possible

2 tbsp Scottish rapeseed oil

2 medium onions, peeled and cut into eight pieces

2 large carrots, peeled and cut into eight chunks

2 sticks of celery from the outer bunch, washed and cut into chunks, plus a few leaves from the centre of the bunch

4 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped

A few sprigs fresh parsley, with stalks

A few sprigs fresh thyme

A handful fresh sage leaves

2 bay leaves

6 black peppercorns

Freshly ground rock salt and black pepper

2 heaped tbsp Seville orange marmalade

Juice of 1 large orange, plus 4 strips of orange rind, pared from the orange using a potato peeler

6 tbsp ruby port

20g butter, softened

500ml vegetable stock (this can be used as an alternative to giblet stock)

Method

1. Heat oven to 200°C and prepare a roasting tin for the duck, lined with foil.

2. Place these in a saucepan (if using), together with half the prepared vegetables, parsley stalks, peppercorns, one bay leaf and strips of orange peel. Cover with 500ml cold water and add two tablespoons of port. Place on a medium heat, bring to the boil, cover with a lid and simmer on a very low heat until the liquid has reduced by half. Strain and set aside for the sauce.

3. As the giblet stock is simmering, heat oil in a heavy frying pan and add remaining prepared vegetables and herbs. Stir in the hot oil and season with salt and pepper. Cook until beginning to soften. Stir well and spoon mixture into the roasting tin, covering the base. Place duck on top of vegetables.

4. Put the marmalade, orange juice and port into the hot frying pan and heat through until bubbling. Pour this mixture over the top of the duck and vegetables.

5. Season the duck with a little more salt and pepper. Butter one side of a sheet of parchment or greaseproof paper, and place it butter-side down on top of the duck, then put on middle shelf of preheated oven for 75 minutes.

6. Half an hour before roasting time is complete, remove the paper, and baste the duck with the collected juices in the tin. Return uncovered duck to oven to cook for 10 more minutes. Removing from oven and lift duck on to a dish.

7. Pour the contents of the roasting tin, through a strainer into a bowl.

8. Replace duck in roasting tin and return to oven, uncovered, to complete cooking time and allow the surface to turn golden brown.

9. Discard cooked vegetables and herbs. If using giblet stock, add the cooking juices from the roasting tin to the stock. Reheat to allow further reduction, if required. Check seasoning, cover and keep warm. If you don't have giblet stock, make vegetable stock using a stock cube. Add the duck juices from the roasting tin, as per instructions for the giblet stock, and reduce liquid by half, by simmering over a low heat.

10. Once duck is cooked, lift on to a carving board to rest in a warm place. Pour any more cooking juices from the roasting tin into the stock and whisk together well, while allowing the liquid to reduce and emulsify until similar to a thin gravy in consistency. Taste for strength of flavour and seasoning, adding a dash more port or marmalade, as required. When carving, more juices may escape, so pour these into the sauce too.

11. Before serving, strain the sauce through a sieve into a sauceboat, or similar. Serve the duck with the sauce poured over the meat, with accompanying vegetables of your choice. In the picture is spiced red cabbage, slow-cooked with apple, orange and cider, cinnamon and grated nutmeg, plus some wild brambles thrown in for good measure just before serving. You could add blueberries or blackberries as an alternative. Add parsnip and potato mash to complete the dish.

Shirley Spear is owner of The Three Chimneys and The House Over-By on the Isle of Skye, and chairwoman of the Scottish Food Commission, which is helping to build Scotland into a Good Food Nation. See threechimneys.co.uk