MORE years ago than I care to remember, I was dispatched by the local newspaper I was working for to an old country house some 15 miles or so to the north of Aberdeen to write an article about the ambitious hotel and golf course development that was being planned there.

The two gentlemen I spoke to just outside the village of Oldmeldrum that day seemed genuinely excited about the project; about the championship course that was to be constructed, the club house and practice facilities that would be integral parts of the new set-up and the grandeur of the refurbished residence.

So when my wife and I were invited to spend a weekend at Meldrum House at the end of last year I was intrigued. Would the heady aspirations of those I had interviewed have been realised?

It didn’t take long to determine that they had been. From the moment we stepped inside the reception area of the 13th-century manor house, where a roaring log fire ensured the welcome, it was obvious it has been renovated to an exceptionally high standard.

Our room was cavernous, stunning and stylish. The four poster bed, in particular, was breathtaking. My other half would, I suspect, have been more than happy to remain indoors, Kindle in one hand and a large glass of Shiraz in the other, and wallow in the opulence of the surroundings for the entire duration of our all too brief visit.

As she recovered from the journey with a soak in the freestanding tub in our equally spectacular en suite bathroom, I decanted to the Cave Bar where an extensive collection of Glen Garioch whiskies were on offer.

Dating back to 1797, the local Glen Garioch distillery is one of the oldest in Scotland. The Cave Bar, too, is over 800 years old and it was a cosy place to nurse a generous measure of the water of life before dinner as a storm raged outside in the dark night.

Requiring gluten-free fare when dining out can often be a frustrating experience. Restaurants can be less than accommodating, many offer only a token dish, or dishes, and some view it as a positive inconvenience. There were no such problems, however, at Meldrum House.

Not being a particularly large establishment – the main building only has 10 rooms – has its advantages. The service was attentive and friendly without being overbearing and my wife’s dietary requirements were catered for with the minimum of fuss.

She started with the pressed lamb and rosemary terrine with sweet and sour apricots and then for her main course opted for a sirloin steak – sourced, the menu assured us, from local butcher Presly’s of Oldmeldrum, cut to 8oz and aged for 21 days – with hand-cut chips, vine cherry tomatoes, flat cap mushrooms and a Bearnaise sauce.

I had the seared west coast scallops, black pudding fritter and cauliflower puree to start with and moved on to the loin of Highland venison with stick red cabbage, truffle potatoes and port jus. It was not at all hard to see why the dining room has been awarded two AA Red Rosettes.

Heavy rain, alas, meant my planned outing on the Graeme Webster-designed course the next morning had to be abandoned. Looking out on the lush and rolling parkland layout on the 240-acre estate from our bedroom window knowing I wouldn’t be able to venture out on it was very much like leading a horse being led to water and stopped from taking a drink. There are worse places, however, to be confined to barracks.

After a breakfast of Portsoy kippers in lemon and parsley butter and poached eggs on toast, we sat, like beached whales, on the leather sofas in the sumptuous drawing room, where another log fire crackled away, and flicked through the morning papers. A fair few of our fellow residents had the same idea.

It was, we were told, a popular spot for afternoon tea, when canapés, pastries, sandwiches and freshly-made scones with jam and clotted cream are served, and it was easy to understand why.

Last year, Meldrum House opened a modern £4.5 million extension which includes a ballroom that can accommodate up to 200 people, and during our stay a right good Highland wedding was in full swing there, with everyone involved clearly having a rare old time.

We took the opportunity to nip away into Aberdeen for a couple of hours, to do a bit of shopping, meet up with friends and have a bite of lunch. It the mood takes you, the attractions of the Granite City are just a short drive away.

Dinner that night was again a delight. The menu is not particularly extensive, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in quality. I went for the seared fillet of North Sea cod with puy lentil stew and then had the roast red-legged partridge with blue cheese barley, caramelised celeriac, game chips and thyme reduction. My wife opted for the wild mushroom soup and then the sirloin steak. Once again. I suppose it must have been good.

The rain relented and the sun came out on the last day of our stay and the course opened for play. It was worth the wait. The members who had been unable to get out for a hit the day before were there in force and my round wasn’t the quickest I have ever played. But it was no hardship at all spending a little longer than normal on such a fine track.

With its USGA standard greens, numerous dog legs, extensive bunkering, dry stane dykes and interesting water features, the 5,867-yard course is an enjoyable test. The stunning setting, on the back nine in particular, when you find yourself high up in the heart of rural Aberdeenshire with views stretching for miles, was the most memorable aspect of the round.

As had been promised, Meldrum House will not be in a hurry either.

Matthew Lindsay was a guest of Meldrum House Country Hotel and Golf Course www.meldrumhouse.com. For more information call 01651 872294 or email enquiries@meldrumhouse.com

5 things to do around Oldmeldrum

Visit a distillery: If you don’t want to sit inside the Cave Bar at Meldrum House sipping their whisky, you can pay a visit to the local Glen Garioch Distillery in nearby Oldmeldrum. At over 200 years old, it is one of the oldest in Scotland. There are guided tours daily.

See a stately home: Fyvie Castle, an 800-year-old Scottish baronial fortress, is also in the vicinity. The National Trust for Scotland property has, or so the advertising blurb declares, ghosts, legends and folklore woven into is tapestry.

Go walking: But Meldrum House is situated in a gorgeous part of the country and it would be a crying shame not to get out and about to sample the scenery and take in the fresh air when you are there.

Play golf: If you consider golf to be a good walk spoiled then the Bennachie Hills are situated just outside Inverurie and are popular with outdoor types of all ages and abilities.

Have an adventure: Those seeking more of an adrenaline rush, or who have young children in tow, should pop along to the Lochter Activity Centre in Oldmeldrum where archery, clay pigeon shooting, digger driving, go-karting, target golf, trout fishing, Segway driving, sumo wrestling and other activities can all be enjoyed.