YEARS ago, puddings at The Three Chimneys were listed on a blackboard which I chalked up every day, according to the choice available. There always had to be something chocolatey of course and this recipe was one I used frequently with a variety of accompaniments. I once described it as "feather-light chocolate cake and to my horror, later heard an extremely well-known Lady from Skye remonstrating during one of her well-attended cookery demonstrations, that chocolate cake should never be described as feather-light. As she whisked and stirred with marvellous aplomb, she extolled the essential virtues of every chocolate cake as being rich, dark, dense and sensual, filled with something creamy and topped with sticky ganache. I blushed in recognition of the fact that she had eaten lunch in the restaurant when my "feather-light" version had been on the blackboard and vowed never to call it by that name ever again.

Easter has become a celebration of chocolate. The traditional chocolate egg, poignant symbol of the Christian story of the rock being rolled away from the tomb of Jesus, seems to have got lost along the way. Anything goes, from rabbits with carrots, ducks in Easter bonnets and hens nesting their chicks, to various characters including Star Wars android R2-D2 and Wallace And Gromit character Sean the Sheep. The gaudy packaging and mile-high stacks in supermarkets create massive demand.

Like every other calendar celebration, our age-old customs have become hijacked by mass-commercialisation, with Easter decorations and greetings cards on a scale that never existed at all in my childhood. The luxury market has also come into flow, with chocolatiers competing to create exotic eggs with all manner of flavourings and special surprises. Edible gold leaf, chilli, salted caramel, wild mint, rose petals, truffled nuts and spices – everything melds into shape with the rich taste of real dark chocolate, sensitively resourced, of course.

I secretly despair knowing that my constant need to diet is led into temptation every year. I hope no-one will buy me one, but long to peel away the silvery foil, bite into the thin shell of a chocolate egg and love the feeling of it crumbling in my mouth. Perhaps it is a longing to step back in time into childhood, of early sunshine and spring days, hunting for eggs in the garden, hidden by my dad in frustratingly difficult places? Perhaps it is the promise of time spent playing outside again and longer holidays on the horizon? Whatever the answer, there is something special about an Easter egg-hunt, with or without all the paraphernalia that is sold to enhance the occasion. A little bit of family fun goes such a long way and as a grandparent, I feel it is my duty to ensure that Easter traditions are lovingly maintained.

A family get-together usually means cooking a big family meal. I recommend this chocolate cake, which can be made well ahead. It is a very squidgy and indulgent creation, simple and quick to make. You only need a thin, feather-light sliver, served with whipped or pouring cream, crème fraiche or ice cream, along with fresh fruit in season. Pears are prominently for sale at the moment, so try poaching some to serve for Easter lunch. You could also serve the poached pears on their own, with a homemade chocolate sauce and if the meal is more for grown-ups than very young children, the addition of blue cheese and walnuts is an absolute winner.

Dark chocolate mousse cake

(Serves 8/10)

200g good quality, plain, dark chocolate (70/80%)

100g unsalted Scottish butter

4 large eggs

200g caster sugar

50g ground almonds

Icing sugar to dust the finished cake

Method

1. Prepare a 24cm (10”) loose-bottomed cake tin, lightly oiling the base and lining it with a circle of non-stick baking parchment.

2. Pre-heat oven to 170°C (gas mark 3).

3. Melt butter and chocolate together in a glass bowl, sitting over a pan of simmering water. Ensure the base of the bowl does not touch the water. Stir from time to time with a wooden spoon as the chocolate and butter melt. Alternatively, melt in the microwave.

4. Separate the eggs, placing the yolks in one clean bowl and the whites in another.

5. Mix the egg yolks with the sugar and ground almonds, beating together until creamy.

6. Pour the melted butter and chocolate over the egg yolk mixture and mix together well.

7. Whisk the egg whites by hand using a balloon whisk until they reach the soft peak stage. Fold these into the chocolate mixture, using a large metal spoon.

8. Turn the mixture into the prepared cake tin, roughly level the surface and bake in the oven for 40-45 minutes until just firm to touch. Leave the cake to cool completely in the tin. It will sink in the middle, but that's OK.

9. Before serving, remove from the tin carefully as the edge is prone to crumbling. Peel paper from base and set aside on large plate for cutting into portions. Dust with a little sieved icing sugar. Use a knife which has been dipped in hot water and wiped dry with kitchen towel. Repeat for each slice to achieve a clean cut. The cake will be soft and squidgy inside.

Pears poached in white wine with lemon and ginger

(Makes 8)

8 fresh whole pears, just ripe but firm complete with their stalks. (Williams or Comice pears work well)

500ml dry white wine

500ml cold water

1 large unwaxed lemon

1 knob of root ginger, about the size of the top of your thumb

8 whole cardamom pods

2 bay leaves

225g caster sugar

Optional: 50g chopped walnuts plus 100g soft, Scottish blue cheese

Method

1. Pour water and wine into a large saucepan with a well-fitting lid.

2. Pare the lemon peel into strips with a potato peeler and add to liquid, together with the juice of the same lemon.

3. Peel the root ginger and slice thinly. Crack the cardamoms with the flat blade of a knife.

4. Add the ginger, cardamom and bay leaves to the liquid, together with the sugar. Warm over a gentle heat until the sugar has dissolved. Then bring to boiling point and allow the syrup to bubble away gently for around 15 minutes while you prepare the pears. This allows the syrup to reduce, thicken slightly and develops the flavours.

5. Carefully peel the pears using a potato peeler, in a gentle, downward action from stalk to base. Take a thin slice from the base of each pear, to make it flat. Keeping each fruit intact and using a pointed teaspoon or small melon baller, scoop out the base of the pear, removing the woody core and any pips. Place each pear in a bowl of cold water while you prepare the others. Add a generous squeeze of lemon juice. This helps to avoid discolouration.

6. Place the prepared pears carefully into the syrup, cover with a circle of greaseproof paper to help hold them down under the lid.

7. Return the pan of syrup with the pears to the heat, bring back to simmering point, cover with a lid and leave to simmer slowly for up to 10 minutes.

8. Turn off the heat, carefully turn the pears around in the hot liquid, but leave them for a further 10 minutes, covered with the paper and lid. By now, the pears should be cooked and soft when pierced with the point of a sharp knife.

9. Lift the pears out of the syrup and place in a bowl. Strain the syrup through a sieve over the pears. Set aside to cool completely, covered with a circle of greaseproof paper. Once cool, cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. (They'll keep well in the refrigerator for a few days, providing they remain in the syrup.) Any leftovers are delicious served for breakfast with natural yoghurt and chopped walnuts. Serve the pears with a few spoons of the chilled syrup poured over the top.

Blue cheese option:

1. Crush the walnuts and mash together with the blue cheese to form a soft paste. Use a small quantity, to fill the hollow cavity in each pear, just before serving.

Shirley Spear is owner of The Three Chimneys and The House Over-By on the Isle of Skye www.threechimneys.co.uk