LOCATED between sea, mountains and Basque countryside, the Pays de Saint-Jean-de-Luz in the south-west of France includes 11 quaint towns and villages, each with its own story to tell. The region is a land of contrasts and hidden treasures.
A scenic 20-minute drive from Biarritz Airport brings us to to Hôtel Hélianthal, an ocean-facing establishment that is inspired by the Art Deco period of the 1930s. It's an ideal base for discovering both the Basque country and Spain – since the region sits close to the border – allowing visitors the chance to stroll along narrow streets in the seaside resort.
Hôtel Hélianthal terrace
Dinner is being prepared just a two-minute walk away at the Grand Hôtel Thalasso & Spa. Dating back to the 19th century, the ocean-facing five-star venue has been recently renovated, while maintaining its riches of yore. Coffered ceilings and a grand wooden staircase, both with a contemporary twist, are the jewels in the crown.
Grand Hôtel Thalasso & Spa
Grand Hôtel Thalasso interior
Downstairs in the stunningly tranquil spa, huge marble pillars meet a vast stone ceiling, creating a look that is both vault-like, yet full of natural light. Outside, it’s just after six o’clock, yet the sun is still hot and the vastness of the Bay of Biscay beckons. Heading back up and through the bright bar, I order white wine and snacks and sit on the terrace taking in the never-ending water.
The spa
Bar area
Grand Hôtel Thalasso terrace
Just before the dinnertime rush, Michelin-starred chef Christophe Grosjean introduces himself. Calm and chatty, he asks me my initial thoughts on the region before heading off to whip up a four-course dinner, which includes white asparagus au gratin, cecina and spinach, followed by a-little-too-rare filet of duck with morel mushrooms, rounded off with the pièce de résistance that is a dark chocolate dome which, when cracked into, overflows with quince, pear and vanilla and truffle ice-cream.
The following morning, I set off to tackle the first summit in the Pyrenean mountain range, the imposing Rhune, which overlooks the Atlantic coast from an altitude of 905 metres. At an average speed of just nine miles-per-hour, the Rhune train takes 35 minutes to reach the heart of wild natural countryside. At the top, on the border between France and Spain, the breathtaking 360-degree panoramic views stretch from ocean to mountains. On the descent, I am lucky enough to spot some of the Pottok horses, manech sheep and tawny Pyrenean vultures that proliferate on the mountain.
Rhune train
View from the top
During my short break, I only manage to dart around a handful of the area's villages, but the one that stays in my mind is Sare, situated right on the border with Spain. The drive to the village is gorgeously antiquated, running through winding roads, red and white farmhouses and rolling hills. Upon arrival, it’s clear to see why Sare is listed as being "one of France’s most beautiful villages".
Driving into one of the narrow streets, remnants of the recent presidential election are still evident: two large posters, side-by-side, continue to scream out their messages. "Ensemble, la France!" declares the now victorious Macron, while the defeated Le Pen urges: "Choisir la France."
Away from politics and eager to sample the local cuisine, I pass by the charming Hôtel Arraya. The venue dominates Sare’s square and I come to discover the building is formed with three old residences connected together around a tranquil, scenic secret garden.
Hôtel Arraya in the square
Having eaten a sumptuous Michelin-star dinner the night before, it’s the food of Sare that lingers in the memory: rich, flavoursome red wine-infused foie gras with moreish brioche tapenade, followed by grilled beef tenderloin and then a large crème brûlée.
After a tour of the historic building courtesy of the friendly owner, I take what’s left of my white wine and sit out in the hotel's secret garden in the blazing heat.
Hôtel Arraya's 'secret garden'
Across Saint-Jean-de-Luz’s, the locals enjoy meeting up to play traditional Basque games. More often than not, these encounters end in a bar or around a table, in song or dance. Food is also an important part of the Basque culture, and it’s this culture that gives the Basque people their own identity. “We French live to eat. We do not eat to live,” I’m told by a local when I arrive in Ainhoa. If I tell her what my on-the-go diet usually consists of back home, she’d be horrified, I think.
Pelota is another game for which this region is famous, and it plays host to some of the best players in the world. Having gone off to France with not a sporty bone in my body, I find I have a love for the squash-like game.
Pelota
Quivering after an hour-long session with a local coach in the open pelota court, in which my competitive nature comes roaring to the surface, it’s back to the four-star Hôtel Ithurria for a quick shower before my second Michelin-star dinner of the weekend. Tonight, it’s avocado mousse with a thin slick of duck as amuse-bouche before I, for the second time in one day, unashamedly tuck into "foie gras with declination of rhubarb". Preferring Sare’s, I move on to devour the course of maigre fish accompanied with celery, pak choi and broccoli and wipe away the next serving of roasted spring lamb. With a final course of mango dome, laced with pavlova, filled with passionfruit cream and served with coconut sorbet, my waistband can take no more as the final night draws to a close.
A stroll along the rugged Lafitenia beach the following morning sees me pop by the Maison Tamarin villa for a visit. To my disappointment, the Scottish owner isn't in, but the staff offer croissants and fresh coffee in the lush and private five-acre yard where I take in the panoramic views over the Pyrenees and Atlantic Ocean before heading back through the large, family-accommodating property for one final spot of light lunch at the beachside Guinguette Erromardie – with a small splash of wine, of course.
Maison Tamarin
On the short drive to the airport, I realise Saint-Jean-de-Luz has won me over. I’ll be back again. Only, this time, our time together won’t be so brief.
Aftab Ali was a guest of Terre et Côte Basques. Click here for more information on the region.
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