WOW, lobster macaroni … what a great idea! Lobster demands a fine and full-bodied white wine at the best of times, but if you’re adding cheese and macaroni, you have to go to Burgundy. Very few whites will stand up to such a rich and flavoursome dish, but a good Burgundy will deliver every time.
You could arguably head to Puligny-Montrachet for the enhanced acidity which would cut through the cheese element in the dish, but my preference would be for the extra richness of a good Meursault. The inherent power in the glass will more than cope with the food, and the price you pay for the bottle will be forgotten long before the lingering memories of such a gargantuan gastronomic collaboration.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes-Dessus 2005 Vincent Girardin (Inverarity One to One, £31.99). Vincent’s 2005 Meursault is an absolute bargain, especially when you consider the age of the wine. A mature white Burgundy tends to lose a touch of the fruit that you expect in younger bottles, but the secondary characteristics that come to the fore more than make up for this loss. The gentle fruit notes in the glass are less zippy tangerine, and more tropical peach and pear and the wine has a soft and lovely, long finish. Unfortunately, we don’t usually see this maturity in bottles that we buy straight off the shelf as the tendency in today’s market is to go for the younger, fresher styles. It’s always worth popping in to your local wine merchant (as opposed to your local supermarket) to seek out these hidden gems.
For a younger example of the style, try a bottle of Meursault Le Limozin 2014 Michel Bouzereau (Majestic Wine Warehouse, £40). These guys are based in the heart of the village of Meursault and they make fantastic wines. They understand the importance and the role of oak in what they do, but they never over-state this element of their production. As always in Burgundy, producer is key (more so than vintage or other considerations) and you can always rely on Michel Bouzereau.
If you have to keep the weekend wine purchase below £30, grab a bottle of the Macon-Cruzille Les Genievrieres 2016 Domaine Guillot-Broux (Inverarity One to One, £27.99). This is an exceptional white Burgundy in the style of a good Meursault at a fantastic price.
Pete Stewart is Glasgow director of Inverarity One to One, 185a Bath Street, Glasgow www.inveraritymorton.com
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