Growing up in a hot climate, there were plenty of reasons to race up to our flat rooftop to enjoy a clear starlit sky or a balmy breeze. But on the night of the 29th fast in Ramadan, the only reason was to catch the first glimpse of the new moon, to hear that deafening but delightful siren from the mosque that followed. All this meant it was Eid the next morning.

As a child the anticipation of collecting colorful packets of "eidee" (gifted money) and the eating "mithai" (sweetmeats) dulled out much else. But as I grew up, my interests were diverted towards the intoxicating aromas of saffron and spice wafting from the kitchen. An eve-of-Eid tradition in my home was making the ubiquitous South Asian dessert, gajar ka halva. I watched my mother grating a kilo of deep red, sweet and intensely crunchy Pakistan carrots and throwing them into a steel cauldron with cloves, cardamom and shocking amounts of buffalo milk cream. That night, the house would be filled with the flavours and aromas of Eid; and sleeping was always next to impossible.

Many families have their own secret recipes for gajar ka halva, passed down through the generations, but mother’s recipe is a blend of family recipes from both my grandmothers. After a month of abstinence and sombre evenings, Eid brought with it a new hope, a time for joyous celebration of the best we can lay on our tables. Globally, feeding others goes to the very heart of Eid. In Pakistan, families gather, embrace and share abundant platters, as food takes centre stage at this festival and no expense is spared.

A day of feasting and festive dishes would begin with an indulgent breakfast of sheer khurma (sweet vermicelli, saffron and date milk) or qawami seviyan (sugar-concentrated vermicelli with cream). Lunch would be the highlight of the day and preparation for the Eid daawat (joyous feast) began days before the event, resulting in a extravagant array of dishes, including some favorites, such as beef shank nihari, goat biryani infused with kewra water, paya (goat's trotter stew), homemade naans, lentils and spiced vegetables, but it was always the sweets that took centre stage. After all the plates were removed, my mother would unveil her laboriously prepared carrot halva. For me this was a truly sensory experience: adorned with gold or silver leaf, crowned with fresh slivered pistachio and exuding its haunting aroma of cardamom and sometimes saffron; hot or cold – this grand finale was worth every minute of my mother’s hard work. Eid was now complete.

To most Pakistanis, seviyan (sweet vermicelli with pistachios, cardamom and saffron) is synonymous with Eid; and though it would always be made at home, to me, gajar ka halva represents seasonality and natural larder like no other.

A transportable recipe no matter where you live, I recreate this here in Scotland today using local produce, without the need for many unusual ingredients. Though the flavour is different using Scottish carrots, it tastes like home nonetheless, maybe because the spirit of the recipe never changes – the method, the love and perseverance with which it is cooked, but most of all, the memories and deep sense of heritage it evokes. Gajar ka halva, to me, is the ultimate Pakistani celebratory dessert, no matter where I am in the world. Eid Mubarak to all those celebrating this weekend.

Sumayya’s family carrot halva with cloves and cardamom topped with whole milk fudge

Serves: 3-4 people

Preparation: 25 minutes

Cooking: 60 minutes

3 cups peeled and grated carrot

1 ½ cups double cream

½ cup full fat (whole) milk

½ - 1 cup caster sugar

5 cardamom pods, seeds taken out and crushed

5 cloves

2 tbsp desiccated coconut

1 tbsp roughly ground pistachios

Natural red food colour (optional)

Garnish:

1 tbsp desiccated coconut

1 tbsp each crushed pistachios and almonds

Gold or silver leaf (optional)

2 tbsp khoya (wholemilk fudge), recipe below

Method:

1. Boil the milk and cream together, add the grated carrots, cloves and cardamom seeds. Cook on low heat and keep stirring occasionally and keep an eye on the pan. Cook this until the milk/cream gets absorbed into the carrot (takes about 25-30 minutes on medium low heat). Now add the sugar and keep stirring until it is all mixed in well. Add the coconut and ground pistachios. You can add natural red food colour if you feel the carrots are too pale, but this is optional.

2. Continue to stir until the carrots being shiny, and the ‘halva’ starts to leave the sides of the pan, and come together as a sticky ball. All the milk/cream and sugar should be combined very well at this point.

3. Pour into a serving dish, allow cooling slightly, and decorating with all the garnishes. Serve either warm with ice cream or cold as it is.

Khoya (wholemilk fudge)

4 cups full fat (whole) milk

In a heavy based pan, bring milk to a boil, keep stirring and scraping dried milk from sides of pan and stir into the boiling milk.

Keep cooking on medium heat, until the milk reached the consistency of mashed potatoes or ricotta. Allow to cool in pan.

Transfer to into an air tight container, and refrigerate until needed. Use within a week.