MANY of our Christmas traditions are associated with pre-Christian times, reflecting ancient Celtic festivals. These celebrations were mostly aligned with the calendar, particularly the phases of the sun, which was worshipped religiously, as were the moon and the stars. Yuletide took place around the days of the northern winter solstice, when providing light and warmth during the long hours of darkness and low temperatures would have been important to survival. Grand feasts were also enjoyed, using food and drink made from the plentiful times of harvest, prepared, preserved and stored away in readiness.

A ceremonial yule log was a highlight of the solstice celebration, brought into the house, placed in the fireplace, decorated with seasonal greenery and doused with cider or ale before being set ablaze. The log would burn day and night, and continue to smoulder throughout the 12 days of Christmas, as we know this period of time today. A piece of wood would be kept to light the log at the following Yuletide, carrying on the spirit and goodwill from one year to another.

A chocolate yule log may seem far removed from the fire of our ancestors, but the custom of providing gifts and sharing a plentiful family feast is certainly in keeping with Christmas as we know it today. Dried fruits and strong spirits are associated with the cakes, puddings and pies which form part of our current traditions. Made well ahead of the festivities, these are usually quite dense and dark in texture and taste. Personally, I love these delicious, traditional recipes, but they are not to everyone’s taste. A pudding or dumpling is also quite a lot to tackle after a generous main course of turkey and all the trimmings.

However, a chocolate log made with a very light sponge, filled with cream and decorated with butter icing, can be served as a dessert, but it is also great with a cup of tea instead of the usual cake and mince pies. Your family and friends will love this squidgy indulgence. It may be calorie-laden, but this is a luxurious treat and Christmas comes but once a year!

Chocolate Yule Log

(Serves 8)

For the Chocolate Roulade:

225g good quality, plain dark chocolate (70-80%)

4 tbsps cold, strong coffee

5 large eggs

110g caster sugar

275ml fresh double cream

50g soft, light brown sugar

2 tbsps brandy or Tia Maria (optional)

Oil for greasing

Method:

1. Preheat oven to Gas Mark 5, 190°C.

2. Grease a Swiss roll tin, measuring around 33cms x 23cms, with a tiny dab of oil here and there, especially in the corners.

3. Line the tin with a sheet of baking parchment paper, large enough to cover the base and overlap the sides slightly.

4. Break the chocolate into a bowl and add the cold coffee.

5. Sit the bowl over a saucepan containing around 5cm of cold water. The base of the bowl should not touch the water. Place the saucepan over a medium heat and allow the chocolate to melt slowly. Turn off the heat when the chocolate appears to be almost melted, and beat until smooth with a wooden spoon. Remove the bowl from the saucepan and set aside to cool slightly. If you prefer, melt the chocolate in the microwave.

6. Separate the eggs, placing the yolks in one bowl and the whites in another larger bowl.

7. Add the caster sugar to the yolks and beat together until light and creamy.

8. Mix the egg yolk mixture together with the melted chocolate.

9. Whisk the egg whites until they reach soft peak stage.

10. Place one large metal spoonful of the whisked egg whites into the egg and chocolate mixture, and lighten this mixture by cutting and folding the egg white through it.

11. Using a plastic bowl scraper, transfer the lightened chocolate mixture into the remaining whisked egg whites and using the large metal spoon, continue to cut and fold the mixture together.

12. Transfer mixture to prepared baking tin and spread it out evenly, right into the corners, using a palette knife.

13. Place tin in centre of pre-heated oven and bake for 15 minutes.

14. When cooked, place the baking tin on a wire tray, cover the chocolate roulade with a damp tea-towel and leave to cool completely. Don't worry if the cake appears to have risen unevenly or cracked while baking, as it will sink flat again while cooling.

15. Once cool, place a clean sheet of baking parchment paper over the wire tray. Place the wire tray and paper over the cake tin and invert it completely. Peel the paper off the surface of the chocolate. You should now have the smooth base of the chocolate roulade uppermost, with a clean sheet of paper underneath it, sitting upon the wire tray.

16. Whisk the fresh cream together in a bowl with the soft light brown sugar and brandy until stiff. Spread evenly across the surface of the chocolate roulade, almost right to the edges.

17. Grip parchment paper along the long side and gently roll the roulade into shape. Pull it together, wrapping the paper around it completely and use your hands to shape it evenly along the whole length. It may crack, but this doesn't matter.

18. Finally, roll the paper-covered roulade inside a sheet of aluminium foil and twist the ends together like toffee papers, ensuring a snug, tight chocolate roll is achieved. Place in refrigerator to chill.

For the icing:

175g dark chocolate

175g icing sugar

175g unsalted butter at room temperature

2 tbsps milk or cream

Method:

1. Break chocolate into a bowl and melt over a saucepan of water as per instructions for the roulade above (or melt it in the microwave).

2. Sieve icing sugar into a large mixing bowl. Cut butter into smaller pieces and add to icing sugar.

3. Cream butter and icing sugar together, adding milk or cream if required to achieve a creamy texture.

4. Add melted chocolate and mix well.

5. When ready to finish the roulade for serving, slice one piece off the end in a diagonal shape, around 10-12cms in length. Place the chocolate roulade on a serving plate or tray, and place the smaller piece on one side, using a small amount of the icing to stick the diagonal side against the round roulade, to represent a branch or stump.

6. Ice the whole roulade with the remaining icing, decorating it to resemble bark using the back of a fork.

7. Keep chilled and dust with sieved icing sugar just before serving. Decorate as you wish, but if using real holly leaves with red berries, remember to remove berries before cutting and serving to ensure these are not eaten accidentally.