THERE are few experiences more satisfying than driving down the Northumberland coast on a cool, but sunny autumnal morning. The sight of Lindisfarne, Bamburgh Castle and Dunstanburgh Castle emerging almost primordially from the shoreline never fails to catch the breath, as if nature and history had combined in some mysterious way to create a lasting, symbiotic beauty. It is difficult to imagine a time when these ancient landmarks did not exist.

However, to our two boys in the back of the car, the fact that we were driving through the heart of Anglo-Saxon Northumbria with a history of human occupation spanning back 9,000 years was all but lost. Fortunately, and much to my relief, their mother came up with an ingenious idea – why not turn our whistle-stop three-day tour of the county into a literary travelog of children’s books. Many of the locations we would visit had in many way, some more obvious than others, links to famous stories for little ones – a possible source of interest we seized on with relish.

First stop, Ford and Etal estate, which lies in the Till Valley between the Scottish Border and Cheviot Hills. The main attraction for us, of course, was Bunty, the most northerly narrow-gauge steam engine in England, which runs from Heatherslaw to Etal Village, a return journey of 50 minutes. A pleasant and picturesque trip for all the family – and for our two-year-old the chance to see up close a distant relative of Thomas the Tank Engine. It also allowed the grown-ups time to enjoy the local speciality – a “singing hinny” at Etal’s charming Lavender Tearooms.

Moving on, our journey took us to Alnwick Garden, where in the spirit of our literary adventure, a “Garden of Fairy Tales” quest was in full swing. With medieval costumes aplenty for youngsters, and staff more than willing to get in character the Garden is, of course, the perfect setting for such magical escapades – the tranquil Cherry Orchard, mysterious Bamboo Labyrinth and dramatic Grand Cascade are a sheer delight for families. For us, however, it was the water sculptures that proved the biggest thrill, particularly the Vortex with its hypnotic downward spiralling motion providing a source of endless fascination to our youngest.

From here, we travelled south to the coastal village of Blyth where we spent the night at The Commissioner’s Quay Inn. The generously-sized room made a welcome pit-stop for us and offered an intriguing view of the comings and goings of a working dock. To our left was the impressive 6,200-tonne Nors Atlantis and various operating vessels, on our right an elegant tall ship – a gritty Ann Cleeves novel meets the Pirates of the Caribbean.

After breakfast, we headed back up the coast to learn a little more about the region’s industrial heritage at Woodhorn Museum in Ashington. Original colliery buildings are scattered among the grounds, allowing a glimpse into the terrifying work undertaken by the salt-of-the-earth pit men back in the day. The centrepiece is the museum building, the design of which was inspired by the colossal coal-cutting machines that once sliced through the region’s bedrock. The interactive display details the lives and loves of the miners and their families, as well as the harsh reality of an impoverished existence dependent on coal, in particular the crippling strikes of the 1980s, the shockwaves from which are still being felt to this day.

From here we travelled east and inland, uncharted territory for us a coastal-loving family more accustomed to seaside views than rugged hillsides on holiday. As we drove into Northumberland National Park, the first remnants of the UK’s longest and largest ancient monument, Hadrian’s Wall, could be seen. Built on the orders of Emperor Hadrian 2,000 years ago, this mammoth feat of engineering took only three legions of Romans about six years to build. Of course, borrowing from our literary theme, we informed our six-year-old that it was all actually Asterix and Obelix’s idea – a bit of a stretch, but it did achieve its intended goal of piquing his interest for a least a few minutes.

Next up was Britain’s most complete Roman fort at Housesteads, built where Hadrian’s Wall climbs to the top of a dramatic escarpment. The views were spectacular and well worth the half-mile stroll and climb to reach, although not recommended with an out-of-sorts toddler unwilling to walk or be carried. The remains of barracks, the hospital and ancient toilets can still be seen, and the mini-cinema located nearby took us on a journey through time from its conception to its ultimate demise.

Back in the car, our final destination for the day, and highlight of the trip, lay ahead – Hesleyside Huts on the grounds of Hesleyside Hall, situated near Bellingham. Once used by hill farmers, our hut, the rustically-named Bramble, had been transformed into a bijou home from home with a king-size bed, separate bunk room, cooking and washing facilities, wood burner and the piece de resistance, a covered balcony ideal for kicking back and viewing our closest neighbours: a field of cows and sheep.

Dubbed “vintage camping in style” rather than “glamping”, we enthusiastically embraced the great outdoors by gathering wood and setting our camp fire for the night. The boys loved it, regardless of our attempts to excite our eldest with Famous Five comparisons. The huts are also situated in a “dark sky discovery site”, so on a cloudless night the same starry landscape viewed by Roman soldiers thousands of years ago can still be admired today.

The next morning, we travelled further “into the deep, dark wood” to the county’s most western outpost, Kielder and Border Forest. Picking up our activity pack at Kielder Castle café we set off on The Stick Man Trail. Inspired by Julia Donaldson’s hapless woody character our mission was to follow his route back to the family tree, encountering information panels and activities along the way. Most impressive were the larger-than-life Stick Man and wooden carved Gruffalo we encountered on our two-hour trek.

Journeying back along northern Europe’s biggest man-made lake, Keilder Water, we pitched up at Leaplish Waterside Park for a quick picnic and chaotic game of crazy golf, before visiting the Birds Of Prey Centre nearby. Home to around 80 species ranging from owls, hawks, vultures, eagles and even pelicans, we were treated to a thrilling aerial display and allowed to handle some of the exotic feathery residents. The centre owner’s impressive knowledge and emphasis on education, rather than entertainment, was both fascinating and quite endearing.

With our three-day excursion almost over, we knew any tour of Northumberland would not be complete without a visit to Alnwick Castle. Steeped in a rich history of knights, plots and intrigue stretching back 100s of years, the castle is, of course, now much better known as the film-set home of Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardy, a fact they are more than willing to encourage. JK Rowling fans, such as my wife, would not be disappointed. With an abundance of Harry Potter paraphernalia available in the gift shop and hilarious broomstick lessons taught on the very same forecourt featured in the first film, it was the ideal way to finish our flying visit to one of Britain’s most magical places.

Mark Eadie was a guest at The Commissioner’s Quay Inn in Blyth (phone 01670 335 060 or visit www.commissionersquayinn.com) and Hesleyside Huts in Bellingham (phone 01434 220068 or visit http://hesleysidehuts.co.uk)

5 Northumberland activities for children

1. Have a picnic: Most of the beaches are wide, open expanses of sand backed by high dunes at Bamburgh, Embleton Bay, Beadnell, Alnmouth and Low Newton.

2. Go stargazing: Thanks to minimal light pollution, Northumberland has some of the darkest skies in England, ideal for all those budding Patrick Moores out there. Kielder Observatory www.visitnorthumberland.com

3. Dress up as a medieval knight: Alnwick Castle gives young and old the chance to put their knightly skills to the test in the Dragon’s Quest, although not recommended for under-fives on account that it is rather scary. www.alnwickcastle.com

4. Get up close with a bird of prey: Lucky visitors are allowed to hold one of the rare birds. Kielder Water Bird of Prey Centre www.kwbopc.com

5. Take the train: For all Thomas fans, Bunty the steam engine is a star attraction. www.ford-and-etal.co.uk