OPENED by Scottish Natural Heritage in 2017, the Hebridean Way stretches 247km (155 miles) along the length of the Outer Hebrides from Vatersay (Bhatarsaigh) in the south to Stornoway (Steornabhagh) in the north. The route crosses 10 islands linked by six causeways and two ferries – and if these numbers do not appear to add up it is because the so-called "Isles" of Harris (Na Hearadh) and Lewis (Leòdhas) share the same landmass. The route traverses a variety of different terrains, passing over rugged hills, along dazzling white shell beaches and across seemingly empty moorland.

The stunning landscape, varied geology, exceptional wildlife and numerous antiquities of the Outer Hebrides are truly awe-inspiring.

Unlike many other long-distance paths, there is considerable variety along the way. The terrain can change rapidly. In the morning you can be walking across a wild moor, then in the afternoon along a blindingly white beach beside turquoise seas. There are also cultural differences. The islands at the southern end of the chain are predominantly Catholic and their communities are considerably more relaxed about religious observance on Sundays. Their leisure centres and supermarkets open on Sundays, which is in total contrast with the mainly Presbyterian islands of Harris and Lewis, where communities are far stricter in observing the Sabbath.

Getting there and getting about means that the Hebridean Way is not the easiest long-distance path in terms of logistics, although there are plenty of tips and advice packed into my new guidebook, Walking The Hebridean Way. But it is a jewel that you will remember every time you see a map of the UK.

At the moment, the Hebridean Way is a work in progress. The route currently finishes at Lews Castle in Stornoway. However, once further funding becomes available, there are plans to extend the route all the way up to the Butt of Lewis (Rubha Robhanais), with options running up both the west and east coasts of Lewis.

Planning your trip

To be enjoyable, a long-distance walk needs to be taken at a pace that allows you to cover the necessary distance in the allotted time, yet leaves time to enjoy the scenery, take in nearby attractions and stop for breaks.

Given the distance of this walk – which, at 247km (155 miles), is half as long again as the West Highland Way – and recognising that most people will need to allow a day or two to travel to and from the Western Isles, the route is divided into 10 stages that can be comfortably accommodated during a two-week holiday with a couple of days spare for rest days or sightseeing. Alternatively, the trail could be tackled over two separate holidays, walking first from Vatersay up to Berneray (Beàrnaraigh) and then from Leverburgh to Stornoway.

A second factor that needs to be considered when planning your walk is accommodation. As the Hebridean Way is a relatively new long-distance trail, it will take time before a sufficient infrastructure of hostels, B&Bs and campsites springs up adjacent to the route. Where possible, stages begin and end at locations with the highest density of accommodation, but inevitably you will often need to detour off the route. Having a support vehicle driven by a partner or friend who is happy to wait around to pick you up at the end of each day and drop you off each morning will give access to a wider choice of accommodation and places to eat.

If you are camping, being in Scotland means you can legally camp almost anywhere, as long as you have no motorised transport, stay no more than three to four nights and leave no trace.

STAGE 5: Lochmaddy to Berneray

Start: Lochmaddy (Loch nam Madadh) (NF 910 691)

Finish: Berneray (Beàrnaraigh) Ferry Terminal (NF 915 799)

Distance: 17km (11 miles)

Ascent: 315m (1030ft)

Time: 4-5hr

Map: OS Explorer 454 or OS Landranger 18

Refreshments: Nothing along the way, but there is a shop and café just beyond the ferry terminal on Berneray.

Buses: Service W18 goes around North Uist; service W16/17 runs down the east side of North Uist and across to the west side of Benbecula, then onwards down the islands. Both services run every day except Sundays. For latest information, see Bus Timetables at www.cne-siar.gov.uk.

Accommodation: Accommodation is concentrated at the start and end of this stage.

This stage begins with short sections of road walking before heading over the moor to climb around Beinn Mhòr, which on a clear day gives good views across the vast expanses of sand that run along the north coast of North Uist (Uibhist a Tuath) and the myriad of islands off its east side.

Then comes Berneray, a gem of an island – as beautiful, if not more

so, than Eriskay (Eirisgeigh) at the other end of the Uists. So leave time to explore before taking the ferry.

The causeway that joins Berneray to North Uist was opened in 1999. However, Berneray remains part of the parish of Harris (Na Hearadh), where many of its past residents are buried in the churchyard of St Clement’s at Rodel (Roghadal). Perhaps the most infamous was Donald Ruadh Macleod (1693-1781), who was married three times and fathered 29 children – seven of them following his third marriage at the age of 75. Another famous son of Berneray is Angus Mòr MacAskill, born in 1825. Known as Giant MacAskill, he was 2.36m tall and weighed 193kg. Clearly there is something in the fine Hebridean air!

Berneray is an excellent place to take a break from the trail. Either

follow the waymarked walk around the north of the island or wander along the 5km beach on the west side. Even if you only have an hour while waiting for a ferry, walk through the village and enjoy the scenery. There is a small museum of local history, a rock near the post office where seals haul themselves out of the water, and at Baile the delightful Gatliff Hostel, set above a white shell beach. Down in the fishing harbour, there is even a coin-operated shower that is available for public use.

Ther e are no permanent residents on the other islands of the Sound of Harris. But this wasn’t always the case: these low-lying islands are fertile and once supported sizeable populations. Pabbay (Pabaigh, Priest’s Island), the largest and most fertile of the group, had a population of 323 in 1841. The Pabbay islanders used some of their corn to distil whisky in sufficient volumes that they needed a resident barrel-maker. This illicit activity provided them with enough income to pay their rents, until eventually they were caught redhanded and consequently evicted from the island so that it could be turned over to sheep.

In 1861, the smaller islands of Ensay (Easaigh) and Killegray (Ceileagraigh), nearer to the Harris shore, supported populations of 15 and 5 respectively, and had permanent residents until the mid 20th century.

The causeway link with North Uist helps Berneray to maintain a viable population. It is doubtful whether the populations of the other islands would have survived to the present day as the Sound of Harris is notoriously difficult to navigate, with numerous skerries, varying water depth and unpredictable tides. Even the shallow draught ferry from Berneray to Harris has to steer a dog-leg course, heading east for half the journey before turning sharply

northwards to Leverburgh (An t-Ob).

A detailed route description of Stage Five is included in Walking The Hebridean Way by Richard Barrett (Cicerone, £14.95). This is an edited extract from that comprehensive guidebook, which presents the Hebridean Way in 10 daily stages of 16-35km (10-22 miles). It also includes two additional stages to extend the route to the Butt of Lewis. Detailed route description is accompanied by 1:50,000 OS mapping and inspirational photography, along with a wealth of information about points of interest.