CAN a plane have a bumpy landing when there's no land involved?

The question occurred as our little seaplane swooped low over - and then into - the Persian Gulf, touching down with a whoosh of spray and then the whump-whump-whump of its floats on the gentle waves. There are probably cheaper ways of seeing Dubai than taking a £230 flight on the Seawings charter, but none that gives you such a clear picture of the city state that has grown at a remarkable rate in the course of a generation.

What was once a tiny trading port has become a global hub, home to some of the world's most astonishing buildings. Towering above them all is the Burj Khalifa, officially the tallest man-made structure on earth. At a staggering 2,722 ft high, it has lifts that rocket skywards for more than half a kilometre.

Now, I have a head for heights like Wayne Rooney has a brain for particle physics, so I was whimpering quietly to myself on the ear-popping ride up. Fortunately, the view from the observation deck is taken in from behind a reassuringly thick plate-glass window, so even a confirmed cowardy-custard like me could enjoy it.

And the scene is astonishing. In terms of natural topography, Dubai is little more than a flat and almost infertile plain of sand, but human endeavour has created a glistening metropolis that is now one of the world's major cities.

When I first visited the tiny emirate about 15 years ago, its building boom was in full swing and everything seemed very temporary, but there is an air of permanence now. Somehow, it feels more settled. After flying Emirates business class from Glasgow, we were whisked from the airport to the Jebel Ali Beach Hotel, well away from the bustle of the city. We ate splendidly, drank sensibly, crazy-golfed badly and even had a shot at the resort's own rifle range. We also set aside time to relax by the hotel's four swimming pools.

For those who would prefer to be closer to the action Dubai offers, the Park Regis Kris Kin - with its rooftop swimming pool and superb restaurant - or the Al Murooj Rotana would be excellent alternatives. The Al Murooj Rotana is built around an exotic waterworld complex, and its Double Decker bar and restaurant is something of a honeypot for expats. So, too, are the Emirates Airlines Dubai Sevens, one of the world's great rugby tournaments. Our early December visit coincided with the event, and we passed an enjoyable few hours watching the players go through their lung-busting exertions while we took things a little easier over a couple of beers in the stand. Remarkably, we also witnessed a Scottish victory, albeit in the veterans event.

Later, we headed for Dubai Creek, the inlet around which the old city first took shape. We enjoyed a guided tour around some of the oldest buildings and a cultural museum that offered a cool refuge from the sun - it is warm enough in December, but it gets ferociously hot in July - then headed across the Creek to the souks.

These old markets are among Dubai's must-see experiences. Gold, spices, silks, a swirl of aromas and the almost frantic exhortations of the stall-keepers all add to the exotic appeal. It can be an intimidating experience at first, but with a firm hand on your wallet and some hard haggling you can walk out with a few bargains.

One place we weren't for walking anywhere was in the desert beyond the city itself. You head out into the dunes only in the company of experienced guides, and we had some of the best in the business in the Arabian Adventure drivers who took us out in a fleet of plush 4x4s. The drive itself is all part of the experience as you rush up mountains of red sand then hurtle down the other sides.

After a couple of brief stops to take in the stunning desert landscapes, we finally arrived at the Bedouin camp that was our destination. Its authenticity might have been questionable - think Indiana Jones - but I was happy to suspend disbelief as we tucked into a wonderful evening meal and enjoyed some exotic - no, not that kind of exotic - dancing.

Powerful lights blazed around the camp, adding drama to the scene. But our hosts had an even more impressive trick up their sleeves. After appropriate forewarning, the lights were extinguished one by one, gradually plunging the camp into darkness. At that point, we were invited to look up, to see the most glorious starscape through the clear desert sky. It was an image to cherish at the end of a trip I'd be happy to repeat.

Glasgow to Dubai fares start from £429 for a return flight. London Heathrow to Dubai fares start from £388. London Gatwick to Dubai fares start from £367 for a return flight from London Gatwick to Dubai with Emirates. Emirates operates 16 daily services from the UK to Dubai and beyond, which includes five daily flights from Heathrow, three from London Gatwick and two from Glasgow. Book via www.emirates.com or on +44 844 800 2777. Arabian Adventures: www.arabian-adventures.com