A GROWING interest in Scottish wool from rare and specialist breeds is providing a boost to suppliers of the country's finest yarns who can even trace the provenance of your favourite jumper back to the sheep whose fleece it once was.
Wool from rare sheep breeds in Orkney, Shetland and the Hebrides is increasing in popularity according to organisers of UK Wool Week, who also point to an interest from knitters in hand-dyed yarns, from both commercial and small-scale producers.
Fair Isle patterns are also having a fashion moment, according to wool industry experts, which is driving a trend for Shetland wool in a wide range of colours.
Bridgette Kelly of the Campaign for Wool, with organises UK Wool Week, said: "There's a real interest in the origin story, in particular of the hand-dyed wools used in the artisan and craft sectors.
"There are lots of great stories to tell in Scotland. There is a huge trend for Shetland wool and Fair Isle pattern is in fashion. When every UK high street is exactly the same, these type of products present a point of difference. There is a parallel with the way that we've started looking at the integrity of ingredients in the food industry – in textiles that means the fibre."
Last year Harris Tweed Hebrides, the largest producer of the iconic checked fabric made exclusively on the islands, almost doubled its profits with demand from the luxury market continuing to grow. The tweed, which is spun by small-scale producers on the island, is regularly used by designers including Chanel, Dolce and Gabbana and Ermenegildo Zegna.
But according to Kelly, it is just part of the story. There are 60 breeds of sheep across the UK, including 25 rare breeds, with notable ones found in Scotland including Soay, North Ronaldsay and Jacob, many of whom were now prized for their dark fleeces.
"Once upon a time that wool would not have been interesting because it was the wrong colour," added Kelly, who also works for the Wool Marketing Board. "But now there is a real growth."
Catherine Robb of Kathy's Knits in Edinburgh, which only supplies 100 percent British wools, was one of some 600 people from across the globe attending the Shetland Wool Festival last week. Robb, who was taught to knit by her Shetland grandmother, opened her shop four years ago and "hasn't stopped since".
"Shetland wool is popular because it is so beautiful," she said. "It's been used for centuries and if you take care of it, it will last for years and years. Shetland is a small island but it's full of sheep.
"The trend for knitting has been going for about 10 years now. As people get more experience they want to try things like lace patterns or Fair Isle and the mixed wools are just no good for that. I speak to lots of people who've seen something in the shops – whether it's something high-end or from Primark – and want to make something similar but that is unique and will last."
Orkney wools and those from New Lanark Wool and Textile company are also extremely popular, she added.
Gary Jamieson, of Jamieson's of Shetland wool suppliers, said that interest in their yarns and knitted products had been growing steadily but had picked up particularly in the last couple of years.
"We are offering something quite unique, " he said. "We only buy Shetland wool and we wash, spin and card the wool here on the island. We are a fifth-generation family company. We've got an appealing story."
While their woollen clothing range, including Fair Isle jumpers, had sold well in the Far East for many years, he said that the company was now seeing an increasing number of orders from across the UK. "There has been a real resurgence here with a growing interest from some of the high-end UK buyers," he added.
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