EVERY proud Scot can reel off the nation's many inventions but as well as television and telephone the country also laid claim to tikka masala, which, legend has it, first appeared on Glasgow menus in the 1970s.
But now the dish, which has been a favourite with curry lovers for decades, appears to have had its chips and been replaced as the UK’s most popular by its hotter rival, jalfrezi.
One in five people said jalfrezi was their favourite spicy dish, with madras second and rogan josh third. Chicken tikka masala only managed eighth out of 10 in the poll of readers of the British Curry Club’s magazine.
The reason jalfrezi is top is apparently because modern curry eaters prefer spicier, more authentic Indian food. Jalfrezi is hotter than tikka masala, contains more fresh green chillies and peppers, and no cream. By contrast tikka masala sauce contains spiced meat, tomatoes and cream and no vegetables.
But yesterday, some restaurants in Glasgow disputed the poll and said their customers still preferred the old favourites – perhaps reflecting the fact that only 2% of voters were from Scotland.
A spokesman for Mother India, which prides itself on offering a contemporary take on traditional Indian dishes, said: “Jalfrezi is not popular and we don’t have it on our menu, though people know they can ask for it if they want it.
“It tends to be a very traditional dish, popular with older people. Lots of our customers won’t try it. It’s medium hot and not very cutting-edge.
“Many Scots don’t like the texture of the green peppers, which go mushy and soft because they’re added early on in the cooking. We get more people asking for tikka masala.”
In 2009 Scots businessman Mohammad Sarwar, formerly Labour MP for Glasgow Central, tabled a motion in Parliament that since chicken tikka masala was invented in the 1970s by Ali Ahmed Aslam, proprietor of Shish Mahal restaurant in Glasgow’s west end, it should be recognised on menus as Scottish, not Indian.
The chef made the dish following a complaint from a customer about the dryness of his chicken, so he hastily prepared a sauce using various spices soaked in a tin of Campbell’s condensed tomato soup which he had been eating while recovering from a stomach ulcer.
Mr Sar-war wanted chicken tikka masala to have the same EU legal protection as other regionally designated foods, such as Arbroath smokies and Melton Mowbray pork pies. The motion was not chosen for debate.
Yesterday, when told the news, an indignant Mr Sarwar said: “If people prefer jalfrezi to tikka masala that’s their business. I like jalfrezi too. But tikka masala is still hugely popular and I won’t change my mind and just go with the flow. I still say that tikka masala was invented decades ago by Ali Aslam of Shish Mahal. It doesn’t matter if it’s now No 8 in the charts. It should still be recognised as a Scottish dish.”
Rashid Ali, 35, son of Ali Ahmed Aslam, admitted jalfrezi had become more popular at his father’s restaurant, founded in 1964, though they serve some 60 portions of tikka masala each day compared to 40 jalfrezis.
“The younger generation wants spicier Indian food whereas the older generation tend to stick with the same dish they’ve had for years and years. But no, I wouldn’t say it’s the end for tikka masala.
“Without a doubt, though, the Glaswegian palate has developed. They don’t want artificial colourings or too much oil; they want healthier Indian food.
“Because it has no cream and more vegetables, jalfrezi is more healthy,” he said.
Colin Grant, spokesman for the Scottish Curry Awards, said: “The Scottish people’s tastes have changed and developed over years of eating curries. Their spice tolerance has increased and, in addition, a really nice spicy curry can give your life a lift.”
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