Gastropub. Noun:
“A pub, bar, or tavern that offers meals of a high quality,” or so Google had revealed during a bit of light research prior to a visit to the Loveable Rogue in Glasgow’s Southside.
Well… The more you know.
Although not sure on the specifics of this distinction before accepting the invitation, like many others I was well aware of the Rogue’s reputation for hearty roasts and poshed-up-pub-dinners served at their existing West and East end locations.
Their new home on Nithsdale Road also happens to be one of my favourite areas in the Southside.
There you’ll find La Gelatessa, who serve scoops of gelato the size of your head, Lunar cocktail bar, who know their way around mean vodka martini, and a plethora of cracking restaurants including Lobo and Seven21 one street over.
A very fine set of neighbours indeed.
And there’s certainly a celebratory mood in the air tonight, as we’re welcomed into the newly revamped space with the obligatory launch-night glass of prosecco.
I’ll never tire of those.
A bite-sized trio of snacks is the first to arrive at the table, the smoked haddock and kedgeree arancini winning the award for flavour with chunks of flaky white fish, a satisfying deep-fried crunch and light curry emulsion to cleverly cut through any stodge.
There’s no messing around with mains, a choice of pork, pollok, chicken or celeriac as a token veggie alternative.
Upon further research the next day I note that the meat dishes are all priced at around the ÂŁ20 mark, and wonder if that might be a little steep in the current climate.
But hey, restaurants need to make a buck too, and the portion sizes here are just about generous enough to justify the expense.
That’s a good thing too, otherwise that loin of pork, tender and served with a robust black pudding mash, caper and cornichon would have disappeared in a flash.
Better yet is the Kyiv, a golden brown parcel that’s bursting with salty garlic butter which later oozes across the plate to meet cauliflower cheese and bacon pangrattato.
When it comes to sides, don't underestimate an order of confit cabbage with black garlic, hazelnut and miso butter.
The sauce for this dish is so good that it puts in an extra shift, used for dipping the final bites of pork and Kyiv to be devoured.
Last up a dark chocolate cremuex with bramble and chocolate crumb, much lighter I’d imagine than the option of a sticky date pudding.
It's pitch-perfect after those hefty mains.
We share too an order of Dolcelatte with grapes and caramelised pecans, very much enjoying the way a drizzle of meadow sweet honey melts into thick cheese as it’s spread across crisp toasted, bread.
Is this really a gastropub? I’m not so sure.
But putting pedantry aside, The Loveable Rogue delivers on its promise of refined comfort-food classics in a cosy environment that’s sure to please the Sunday lunch crowd.
If you take one piece of advice from this week, let it be this:
Don’t skip the cabbage.
The Loveable Rogue is located at 122-124 Nithsdale Road, Glasgow.
For more information visit www.theloveablerogue.co.uk
Got questions or queries for Sarah? Send us an email.
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