The Salmon and Trout Association is claiming that French President Nicolas Sarkozy declined a wild salmon starter at a recent lunch hosted by the Prime Minister because of concerns that it might not have come from a sustainable source.

The Salmon and Trout Association is claiming that French President Nicolas Sarkozy declined a wild salmon starter at a recent lunch hosted by the Prime Minister because of concerns that it might not have come from a sustainable source.

The association, which is Britain's leading gamefish conservation body, has written to Downing Street and the chef Raymond Blanc demanding to know why endangered wild Scottish spring salmon was served up at the summit event at Arsenal's Emirates Stadium.

The association said that the starter was only served to the top table at the event "as just two scarce spring salmon had been available".

Paul Knight, executive director of the association, said: "We are particularly heartened that the French President has, in effect, endorsed the basic principle that the practice of indiscriminate coastal netting of our wild Atlantic salmon is simply unsustainable.

"At the same time we are utterly dismayed that his compatriot Raymond Blanc has failed to show a similarly enlightened approach.

"The fact that something is legal does not make it right.

"The inclusion of early-season wild Scottish salmon, universally accepted as unsustainable, on the menu at a state occasion is a disgrace."

A Downing Street spokesman declined to comment on the association's claims.