Fifty years ago next week,
Paris miraculously escaped
Adolf Hitler's order that
it be annihilated. Here,
Dominique Lapierre, who
was 13 when his city regained
its freedom, recalls the
tragic and glorious hours of
one of the most extraordinary
events in human history
'I saw our grocer
climb into one of
the trucks. During
the occupation,
she had served the
German soldiers in
our neighbourhood
first. But the most
astonishing sight
was the stream of
loot flowing out
with the departing
occupiers. Paris
was being emptied
of bathtubs, bidets,
rugs, phones, radio
cases, furniture'
FOR the three and a half million inhabitants of Paris, it was the most
extraordinary of all miracles. This horrible war, which had caused so
many deaths and ruins, had spared their city. As the final hour of the
liberation was approaching, Paris survived, unscathed by the most
destructive war in history. During the 52 months of its occupation by
the Nazis, the city had endured much suffering. But it had not lost its
face or its soul.
That summer Parisians stayed home. The war was raging on French soil
and no-one was able to leave for the traditional country vacation. Most
schools were open. Thousands sunbathed along the quays of the Seine
which had become the world's largest swimming pool. Bicycles and
horsecarts ruled the streets. There were no buses or taxis. The Metro
closed from 11 to 3 every workday and all weekend. Because the city was
practically without gas and electricity, housewives had learned to cook
their families' sparse food over makeshift tin stoves fuelled with paper
balls. Paris was hungry.
To fight against the lack of food, the city had become one big country
village which woke up each morning to the crowing of roosters. They
called out the dawn from bathtubs, broom closets, rooftop pens, garrets,
spare rooms. Like many of my school friends, I raised rabbits on our
apartment's balcony. To feed them, I crept out every morning before
school to chop a few forbidden blades of grass in the nearby public
parks.
A new black-and-white wooden sign had sprouted that summer at the main
intersections of the city: Zur Normandie Front, it said. But that
direction wasn't too popular among the Germans still in Paris. Most of
the military convoys which came through Paris were in fact going the
other way.
Our favourite game after school was to rush to post ourselves along
the routes of these convoys and count the various vehicles which
composed this formidable withdrawal. There were even camouflaged carts
drawn by horses. Some trucks were also taking away the military
personnel who had occupied Paris during four years. Standing on the
platforms, the ''souris grises'' (because of their drab grey uniforms,
the Parisians had nicknamed the German WACs ''the grey mice'') were
crying and waving handkerchiefs.
Some men were shouting that they would be back for Christmas. A few
French collaborators were also among those leaving. One day, I saw the
grocer of our street climb into one of the trucks. During the whole
occupation, she had served -- in priority and without ration cards --
the German soldiers living in our neighbourhood. But the most
astonishing sight of all was the stream of loot flowing out with the
departing occupiers. Paris was being emptied by the truckloads of
bathtubs, bidets, rugs, telephones, radio cases, furniture.
The Germans burned what they couldn't take with them. The sky of the
city soon became black with the smoke of the fires which spread the
ashes of tons of archives and documents. For the population of the
French capital, this intense activity was a sign of the imminent
departure of all German forces still in place in their city. Soon,
French and Allied flags began to appear at the windows of apartment
buildings. This premature manifestation unleashed the wrath of the
occupiers. Innocent citizens were executed. The patriots who launched,
on August 19, an armed insurrection to liberate the capital were to
discover that Nazi soliders were still very much present in the city.
French partisans were not aware that some 1500 miles to the east, in
his ''Wolf's Lair'' -- his bunker headquarters of East Prussia -- Hitler
had just announced his decision to defend Paris and reduce the city, if
necessary, to ''a pile of ruins''.
Twenty years later, as Larry Collins and I began our research for our
book Is Paris Burning?, I met in the modest three-room apartment in
Baden Baden -- where he had retired -- the man to whom Hitler had, on
August 7, 1944, entrusted the mission to execute his ghastly decison.
Prussian General Dietrich von Choltitz had been the executioner of the
city of Rotterdam in 1940 and the butcher of Sebastopol two years later.
To enable von Choltitz to fulfil this latest duty in Paris, Hitler had
given him the widest possible range of powers. He would command Paris as
though it were a besieged fortress. ''You will,'' Hitler had told him,
''receive from me all the support you need.'' This was no vain promise.
We discovered that the German high command had sent von Choltitz
artillery reinforcements and demolition units to accomplish the mission
of blowing up the 45 Paris bridges over the Seine and a whole set of
industrial objectives in and around the city.
Two armoured SS divisions, the 26th and 27th Panzer, as well as the
mortar named Karl, a terrifying weapon which von Choltitz had used to
smash Sebastapol, had also received instructions to rush to Paris.
If the Allies didn't change their plans to bypass Paris, and rush to
its rescue, the French capital was likely to experience hell. In Is
Paris Burning? we reconstruct in great detail the dramatic suspense of
these tragic hours which threatened Paris with an apocalypse. Why didn't
the apocalypse take place?
There are probably many answers. One of the most interesting comes
from a careful analysis of the personality of von Choltitz during that
summer of 1944. The conqueror of Rotterdam had just arrived from
Normandy where he had witnessed the annihilation of his troops under the
deluge of fire from Allied guns and planes. In his short encounter with
Hitler, in the Wolf's Lair, he had been confronted with a man more than
ever a prisoner of his megalomania. Sure enough, Hitler had jumped out
of his box like the devil to promise his visitor the final victory. But
in the depth of his artificially-lit bunker, his raucous barking voice,
which had galvanised and terrorised hundreds of millions of people, was
that day no more than a surrealist growl.
Von Choltitz had come to meet a leader. He had found a lunatic and
this deception was to play a big role in his behaviour. Of all the
scenes we patiently reconstituted, one of the most significant took
place during the morning of Wednesday, August 16, 1944. The mayor of
Paris, Pierre Taittinger, had received some alarming reports that the
Germans had begun to mine the bridges and a number of the city's
monuments, such as the Senate, the Chamber of Deputies and the Eiffel
Tower. He telephoned the Hotel Meurice, where the Commander of the Gross
Paris had his headquarters, to request an urgent meeting with General
von Choltitz.
As the Frenchman was vibrantly trying to convince the Prussian general
to spare his city, von Choltitz, who suffered from asthma, was suddenly
shaken with a fit of coughing. Half-choking, he got up and pushed his
visitor toward the balcony of his office. The fabulous panorama which
sprawled before their eyes offered Pierre Taittinger all the arguments
he needed. The mayor of Paris raised his arm toward the towers of Notre
Dame, the spire of the Sainte Chapelle, the sculptured facades of the
Louvre, the golden dome of Les Invalides, the elegant silhouette of the
Eiffel Tower.''Often,'' he said, ''it is given to a general to destroy,
rarely to preserve.
''Imagine that, one day, it may be given to you to stand on this
balcony again, as a tourist, to look once more on these monuments to our
joys, our sufferings, and to be able to say: 'One day I could have
destroyed all this, and I preserved it as a gift for humanity.' General,
is not that worth all of a conqueror's glory?''
Von Choltitz remained silent for a long moment. Then he turned to the
mayor of Paris, his voice softer now. ''You are a good advocate for
Paris, Mr Taittinger,'' he said. ''You have done your duty well. And
likewise I, as a German general, must do mine.''
The day before this meeting, after having conducted an inspection of
his forces, the Commander of the Gross Paris had asked his chauffeur to
drive him to the Champs Elysees for a surprising purpose. He had entered
the famous tailor, Knize, to buy a heavy civilian winter overcoat. I had
found the bill for this strange purchase in the papers of his former
secretary who had retired in Munich. We pressed von Choltitz to tell us
why he had made such an acquisition in the middle of a torrid summer. He
pondered for a long time.
''I knew that the winter which was to follow was going to be a very
cold one,'' he finally said. Uberta von Choltitz, the general's wife,
showed us with pride this overcoat that she had reverentially preserved.
The label bearing the words Knize -- Men's Tailor -- Paris, London,
Berlin, along with the name of General Dietrich von Choltitz and the
date (August 15, 1944), was still knitted on the inside pocket.
This anecdote is a revealing indication of what von Choltitz's
psychological attitude was. In the depth of his conscience, he had
already chosen the course of action he was going to take at the moment
of truth. Unless his reinforcements reached his command before the entry
of Allied troops, he would not execute Hitler's destruction orders and
perish with his soldiers in a final holocaust.
It was in a plush villa on the shore of the Tegernsee Lake, near
Munich, that I met the man who was to provide the title of our book. In
August 1944, General Walter Warlimont had been the deputy chief of staff
of the OKW, the general staff of the Wehrmacht. This position enabled
him to take part in the two daily strategic conferences that Hitler held
in his Wolf's Lair.
Warlimont had regularly transcribed in his personal diary the account
of the events which took place during these crucial days. For the day of
August 25, 1944, I read the following lines: ''It was a little after 1pm
when the conference began . . . The operations report of Army Group B
for the morning of August 25 was sprawled before the Fuhrer. It said
that the Allied Forces had reached the very centre of Paris.
''Hitler immediately exploded in one of those bursts of anger which
become more and more frequent. He shouted that it was inconceivable that
the enemy could have entered into the city with such ease . . . He
screamed that he had given all the necessary orders for the city to be
destroyed. He suddenly turned to Jodl (his Chief of Staff) and asked:
'Have these orders been executed? Jodl, is Paris burning?' . . .''
Hitler would not receive an answer to this terrifying question.
All telephone and radio communications with Paris were interrupted.
For a very good reason: the tanks of de Gaulle's Free French Second
Armoured Division and the soldiers of the US Fourth Infantry Division
had just liberated Paris after some very tough fighting. At the very
instant Hitler asked his question, French assault troops were capturing,
in the Hotel Meurice, von Choltitz himself and his whole headquarters
staff. Fortunately, the German general offered no resistane to signing
the unconditional surrender of the Gross Paris.
Everywhere, revelling crowds had begun to invade the streets and the
avenues to acclaim their liberators. I had managed to escape my parents'
vigilance to run to the Champs Elysees. An American tank with a big
white star painted on its flank had just stopped in front of the Grand
Palais. I saw a blond giant, his fatigues all covered with grease and
dust, emerge from the turret. My first American!
I was submerged with happiness and emotion. I began to run toward him.
I wanted to tell him our joy, our gratitude, our love. But as I was
running, I suddenly realised that I wouldn't know what to say to him
because I didn't speak any English. In my school we had been forced to
learn German during the war. As I arrived in front of the tall, smiling
American, I suddenly remembered I did know at least two words of
Shakespeare's language. I shouted to him: ''Corned beef!''
He burst out laughing, climbed on to his tank and disappeared inside
to emerge immediately with a huge box of corned beef which he presented
me as the most glorious of all trophies. And what a trophy it was indeed
for a young Parisian schoolboy who had not seen the colour of meat for
many months!
That summer, there was a popular joke in Paris which said the meat
ration of the population had become so small that it could be entirely
wrapped in a subway ticket -- provided the ticket had not been punched,
in which case the meat would fall out through the hole.
The following day -- Saturday, August 26, 1944 -- the most fantastic
spectacle they were ever to see filled my schoolboy eyes: that of the
triumphant parade of the liberation on the Champs Elysees, with at its
head the proud and tall silhouette of Charles de Gaulle, the man whose
voice we had heard during four years, without ever seeing his face.
All along the world's most beautiul avenue, it was one big ocean of
two million cheering people. Crowds lined the rooftops, windows,
balconies, trees, lampposts, packed the sidewalks, screamed de Gaulle's
name as he walked by.
Little girls ducked out to hand him bouquets which he passed back to
the men behind him.
A whole city was pouring its love over the man who had been the
incarnation of hope, the symbol of victory, during 52 months of Nazi
tyranny. But no joy is untrammelled. As the parade turned out of the
Champs Elysees into the Place de la Concorde, a shot rang out.
At the sound, a heavy gunfire started all over the big square.
Thousands of people fell to the pavement to seek shelter. My mother
pushed me under a half-track. Somebody in the crowd screamed: ''It is
the fifth column!''
The officer of a tank immediately aimed his gun on the beautiful,
columned facade of the Hotel Crillon, counted from one to five, and
opened fire. The fifth column of the Hotel Crillon exploded in a cloud
of dust and fell on the pavement.
That night, on the turret of his tank, a young American GI by the name
of Irwin Shaw wrote a letter to his mother. Maybe the words used by this
young man, who soon would be a famous writer, summed up the unique day
throgh which he had lived: ''Mother,'' he wrote, ''the war should end
tonight.''
[CPYR] 1994 Dominque Lapierre, NYTS. Dominique Lapierre is co-author,
with Larry Collins, of Is Paris Burning? which is considered the
definitive work on the liberation of Paris.
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