Heidelberg houses Germany�s oldest university, but there�s more here than bikes and castles. By Karin Goodwin

Mark Twain notes in his 1878 European travel journal, A Tramp Abroad, "One thinks Heidelberg by day is the last possibility of beautiful, but when he sees Heidelberg by night, a fallen Milky Way he requires to consider upon the verdict."

Situated majestically on the banks of the River Neckar, the university town is a jewel in the German crown. Sadly, Twain wasn't the last to notice its considerable charms - in summer, coachloads of tourists descend - but luckily there are plenty of attractions to go around. Arriving in the modern part of the city, the glass and chrome of the Print Media Academy building and iconic galloping "S-Printing Horse" sculpture outside, have a businesslike feel. But a short tram ride away, the pedestrianised streets of the history-steeped old town, with the 13th-century schloss, or castle, as its centrepiece - bring romantic spires, cobbled streets and winding alleys. If it's old-world charm you're after, it's here in spades.

What to see and do Start with a trip on the funicular railway to the part-ruined schloss on the hill above the old town. If you prefer to keep your feet on the ground, you can walk, taking in the views over the Neckar valley. Back in the old town, check out the Gothic red sandstone 14th-century church in Marktplatz or soak up the atmosphere of the university quarter - the oldest in Germany - filled with students on bikes who treat cars and pedestrians with disdain.

Browse in the shops along the Hauptstrasse - the brilliantly stocked Vinyl Only, Hauptstrasse 133 (0049 6221 168816) - crammed full of new and second-hand records and CDs, is a must for music fans. Or install yourself in a caf window seat and while away lazy hours watching the world go by.

Eating Fancy some Turkish food, Japanese, Ethiopian, or Korean? Heidelberg does it all. But if you're looking for the real German deal, try Zum Goldenen Schaf (the Golden Fleece), Haupstrasse 115 (0049 6221 20879) - which has a 250-year history and serves up some of the best regional dishes in town.

Pop, Untere Strasse 17 (0049 6221 25559 or www.pop-heidel berg.de) - decorated with Andy Warhol-esque art, offers good Italian food at reasonable prices, while Hugo Wine und Dine, Rohrbacher Strasse 47 (0049 6221 5860120 or www.hugo-hd.de) - is a more upmarket restaurant with great service.

For lighter snacks and coffees, relax in the central Caf Journal, Hauptstrasse 162 (0049 6221 161712) - or in the stylish environs of the Print Media Lounge, Kurfrstenanlage 60 (49 6221 653949 or www.printmedia lounge.de) - opposite the station.

Nightlife With so many bars scattered along the old town's main drag, a pub-crawl is definitely on the agenda. Start at happy hour with the excellently executed cocktails in Bar 1, Kettegasse 6-8, near Universitatsplatz (0049 6221 180 001 or www.bar-1.de) - then move on to shabbily chic Max bar, Marktplatz 5 (49 6221 24419) - for a cold pils, or head down to Hemingways, Fahrtgasse 1 (49 6221 165033 or www.hemingways-hd.de) - for views over the river.

If you're in a mood for something a little rowdier, get down and dirty at Destille, Untere Strasse 16 (49 6221 22808 or www.destilleonline.de). It's elbowroom only after 10pm - but friendly and fun. For a clubby, late-night vibe, Cave54, Kramergasse 2 (49 6221 27840 or www.cave54.de) - is a long-standing student favourite.

Don't miss If you wake up the next morning regretting the night before, it's time to head for the hills. Cross the Alt Brucke (old bridge) and wind your way up through the woods along the celebrated Philosopher's walks to clear your head and soak up the atmosphere of erudition.

Where to stay The old town is packed with reasonably priced hotels, all within a comfortable stagger of the main action. The newly refurbished Art Hotel, Grabengasse 7 (0049 6221 650 060 or www.arthotel.de) - has double rooms from £78, complete with clean lines, cool colours and a top-notch restaurant.

If minimalism isn't your thing however, then try the Hip Hotel, Hauptstrasse 115 (0049 6221 20879 or www.hip-hotel.de). International city themed rooms - including Delhi, New York and Peking - start at £95.

How to get there Flights are available from Glasgow or Edinburgh to nearby Frankfurt with KLM (www.klm.com) from £76 one way or from Glasgow Prestwick to Frankfurt Hahn, a two-hour drive from Heidelberg, with Ryanair (www.ryanair.co.uk), from around £50 return.