The cost of the UK's special relationship

I recall clearly the first time I saw the words "Abu Ghraib". It was February 1985 and they were on a water supply map of Baghdad. The city's water supply network was the largest in the world. Abu Ghraib wasn't a regular settlement and very odd in that it was "dead-ended" and not looped. When I asked about this I was told it was a military establishment and that I couldn't go there.